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Hiking matters #289: Outdoor shopping in Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

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LEH, INDIA - When I announced to my friends that I was finally going to Kathmandu, their advice was for me to bring a lot of pocket money, as the outdoor shops would prove irresistible.

Indeed, Kathmandu, particularly the Thamel district, has the highest density of outdoor shops I ever saw: the narrow, winding roads are surrounded by outdoor shops offering all sorts of gear, from Everest-grade plastic boots to "Gore-Tex" everything, including hats, socks, and pants.

And I have to confess that I ended up buying some stuff, including the crampons and ice axe that I would need for future expeditions. I also bought small items like a silver rain cover for my daypack, a 30L dry bag that comes very handy, a poncho, and a balaclava. Coby got a real bargain of a -15 C sleeping bag for only 1200 NPR (600 pesos)!

Some tips:

1. Bargain hard. In our experience, most of the time, around 20-40% can be shaved off most of the gear. If you intent to get 30% off, ask for 50%. Don't show too much interest in the gear so they will give a better price. Also, since there are so many shops, it won't hurt to canvass.

2. Not everything is original. There are so many imitation products in Kathmandu, and you would feel like it's Saigon all over again. On the other hand, there are also The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Mammut boutiques, but they are very expensive. I doubt the authenticity even of the so-called "waterproof" clothes and duffel bags, so take their claims with a grain of salt. Usually, the cheaper ones are fake, but depending on your standards, some of the gear can be really clever imitations, and might work just as fine in the trails.

3. Not everything is brand-new. Since Nepal is the hiking capital of the world, many people just leave their gear there, or give it to their guides, so they end up in Kathmandu. You can get these gear cheaper, but examine them closely for any signs of damage.



Gear Review: Inesca Gurka 30 Daypack

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The Spanish outdoor products brand Inesca has arrived in the Philippines, and I have been getting feedback and inquiries from blog readers asking what I think about this newcomer. Lately, I had the opportunity to check out one of its bags, the Inesca Gurka 30 Daypack, which I brought on a dayhike up Mt. Mabilog in my hometown of San Pablo, Laguna.

Weighing just 1.6 pounds, the Gurka 30 feels light, and easy to use. It has a padded back, giving just enough support for the demands of a regular dayhike. Side nets provide space for the usual water bottles, and there is a strap in the middle, supposedly for an ice axe - aesthetically nice but challenging to find a use for, in the Philippines.

I think the design is decent enough, and the materials seem to be okay, not magnetic to dirt and stains. The only weakness of the bag, in my opinion, is that the shoulder strap looks a bit puny compared to the more sturdy-looking constructions of its competitors. The vertical zippers at the back also make the bag somewhat vulnerable to accidental unzipping, though on the other hand, it makes for easy access for items such as a poncho, or a Scooby snack.

But for the reasonable price of this newcomer and its , I am willing to forego this reservation. My initial verdict: I like it and I'm looking forward to seeing more Inesca products in the future.

INESCA GURKA 30 DAYPACK SPECS
Size: 28 x 47 x 21 cm
Material: Ripstop 600D Polyester Weight: 0.73kg
Capacity: 30L
Color: Anthracite/Grey


Hiking matters #296: Stok Kangri (6153m) Day 1: From Spituk to Zingchan

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After climbing the 5,895-meter Mt. Kilimanjaro last December, I was thrilled with the possibility of pursuing a 6000-meter peak. In my mind, it's a psychological barrier, for after having some difficulty breathing in the final approach towards Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, I entertained some doubts about my physical capability to go higher.
And so, when the opportunity to travel to India came, I decided to go for Stok Kangri, at 6153m the "highest trekkable peak" in India. I was joined by my friends, Farah Pasamonte who had joined me in Kilimanjaro, and Jacob Sarreal. This mountain, located at the Ladakh Himalayas in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, is a fairly easy and almost non-technical peak, even though we were hiking towards the end of the season, which meant colder temperatures, snow, and the need to bring ice axes and crampons. In the local language, "Kangri" means snow peak, and "Stok" is the name of the village at the foot of the mountain.
Despite the supposed ease of the climb, I came across several articles in the Internet saying that Stok  Kangri is actually a challenging trek, and the summit success rate is exaggerated by tour operators, to encourage people to try it. To maximize our changes of summiting the mountain, we decided to spend three days in the town of Leh, which at around 3400m is a good place to acclimatize. We did a short trek to Shanti Stupa (Hiking matters #254) and a drive up and another short trek in Khardung La, dubbed the "highest motorable road in the world" at over 5300m.

Finally, on September 22, 2012, we started trekking, from a place called Spituk to a campsite called Zingchan. With the barren landscapes all around you, you'd feel that the trek was set "in the middle of nowhere". But we actually trekked on a road, where vehicles passed through - a cause of no small disappointment on our part. Still, since we were excited to be finally doing the trek, we plodded along.

Significantly, along the way, we passed through a river that is actually one of the sources of one of the world's great rivers, the Indus. But after that, the rest of the trek was going through desolate mounds of rock. Fortunately, the trek was not really that long -- just about four hours.

Zingchan, the campsite, looked like an oasis in a desert, since it was beside a stream, and there were actually trees on it. The elevation was 3900m. The trek was very easy but we knew it was only the beginning. It will get much harder and colder as we went higher. 


Hiking matters #297: Stok Kangri (6153m) Day 2: From Zingchan to Stok La Base Camp

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On Day 2 of our Stok Kangri trek, we proceeded from the initial camp of Zingchan to Stok La Base Camp, which is at the foot of a steep pass called Stok La, the summit of a highland path which connects two villages. "La" means pass, as in Khardung La and Chang La, which we passed through in order to reach the famous Pangong Lake.
Once again, the trek was easy and uneventful, reminscent of the Kilimanjaro trekking days. The only attraction of this part of the trek was passing through the village (Zingchan proper?) which had gompas (religious edifices shaped like mini stupas) and houses made in the traditional style.
At this point, let me share with you some interesting things about how the trek is done. Our supplies and duffel bags are carried by donkeys, which struck us as sure-footed, well-oriented, and obedient animals. There was a local. Then, there was a cook and an assistant cook, who cooked all our meals. Finally, for the guiding part, we had a lead guide and an assistant guide. Both were relatively young and seemed to be familiar with the different mountains

We are provided with tents, two persons on each, and there is a separate tent for cooking, and another for dining. This is where we have our breakfast and dinner, as well as afternoon tea after finishing the day's trek. The food is - unfortunately for us carnivores - mainly vegetarian, Indian dishes - but I actually learned to appreciate the chipati and the dal. As the trek progressed, the moral lesson of "Bring beef jerky and corned beef as baon!" was not lost on us. 
Going back to the trek, on our second day, we began practicing the pole-pole pace of trekking: slowly but surely. It took us about 5-6 hours to reach the Stok La Base Camp; which stood at 4400 MASL - higher than Mt. Kinabalu. We could see the snowcapped peaks on the other side of a brook that served as the campsite's watersource, and formidable mountains leading to Stok La (4900m) loomed ahead.

STOK KANGRI EXPEDITION 2012
HM#296: Day 1 Spituk-Zingchan
HM#297: Day 2 Zingchan-Stok La
HM#298: Day 3 Stok La-Mankorma
HM#299: Day 4 Mankorma-Basecamp
HM#300: Day 5: Summit assault
HM#301: Day 6 Basecamp-Stok Village


Sun Postpaid: The good choice in an adventurer's life

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Life is a matter of choice. Being adventurous, being happy, being successful: these things are not a given; but the everyday decisions we make turn these ideals into part of our lives, and part of who we are.

 I've always loved adventure, especially the outdoors and traveling. I climbed my first mountain at 8 years old, and I've never stopped going further and higher. My latest hike was a trip up Stok Kangri, in the Indian Himalayas, at 6153 meters above sea level. Even when I'm busy, I make it a point to choose to go on adventures, because even though they're physical challenging, they're mentally relaxing. I've never regretted my choice of pursuing these adventures, because they have enriched my life and broadened my horizons.

SUN has always been my good choice as well. It fits my adventurous lifestyle, because it enables me to connect with the people who are part of : my fellow hikers, the people I need to contact for the hikes, as well as my loved ones. The unlimited calls and texts that come at affordable rates are valuable features that allow me to communicable with anyone, anytime.

 Moreover, one thing I love about Sun is the great internet connectivity it provides me. Whether at work or in school in Manila, or preparing for my next hike in Bicol, Cagayan de Oro, or Davao, its 3G connection enables me to share my experiences to my blog readers at the soonest possible time.

 Good choices make life itself an adventure, and for me, Sun Postpaid is a great part of it.

Note: This is a sponsored post.


Altitude sickness in Mt. Kinabalu: How to avoid it and maximize your chances of reaching the summit

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by Gideon Lasco, MD

This is an article belonging to the 'climb health' category in PinoyMountaineer. The information provided in this article is based on research and clinical experience and are not meant as a substitute to actual medical advice and healthcare.

Just two hours from Manila by plane, Mt. Kinabalu is usually the Filipino hiker's first encounter with high altitude. It is the closest 4000+ meter mountain to the Philippines, and every year, around 200-400 Pinoys head to its lofty granite slopes.

By high altitude, I mean elevations greater than 10000 feet or 3000 meters above sea level. Consequently, Kinabalu is also the first instance where there s a risk of altitude sickness, also known as acute mountain sickness or AMS.

Thus, I feel that an article on altitude sickness will be beneficial. What I will write here is a matter of opinion, drawing from my experiences in Mt. Kinabalu, which I have successfully climbed thrice (2008, 2011, 2012), each time as expedition leader, and concurrently, expedition doctor.

The first thing you need to know about altitude sickness is that it can happen to anyone, regardless of physical strength, training, age, or sex. So you cannot predict or anticipate it. Moreover, the occurrence of altitude sickness increases as altitude increases. Kinabalu is still relatively low of you compare it with Mt. Kilimanjaro, Everest Base Camp, or Annapurna Circuit.

 In Mt. Kinabalu, my experience of hiking with a total of 67 Filipinos is that 20-30% develop mild symptoms of AMS (mild headache); 5-10% develop moderate symptoms. I have not seen severe symptoms, such as pulmonary edema or cerebral edema, but the moderate symptoms prevented some of the hikers from reaching the summit.

 Symptoms usually begin set in at Layang-Layang hut, which is around the height of Mt. Amuyao, and at Laban Rata, people begin to feel headaches, but many of these cases resolve in the evening. For others, the symptoms happen during the summit assault.

TIPS FOR AVOIDING ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN MT. KINABALU

1. Don't ascend to Laban Rata too fast. Between Timpohon Gate, which is 1800m, and Laban Rata, the 1400-meter gain in a single day can prove too rapid, especially if you factor in the origin of participants just the day before: Manila, which is at sea level. I have a friend who's a marathoner and trail runner; he breezed his way up Laban Rata, but began to have a bad headache after.

2 . Hydrate at Laban Rata - take advantage of the free Sabah tea in the buffet dinner. Across the world, drinking tea is known to help people acclimatize. Leo Oracion always advises me to hydrate in evening, and before the climb. However, do not overdo it. Overhydration can also be harmful.

 3. Try to get some sleep in Laban Rata. Of the people I guided in Kinabalu, those who didn't make it have one thing in common: they didn't get sleep in Laban Rata.

 4. If you are feeling mild symptoms such as a slight headache, it's not really a reason to turn back. You can still proceed. However, moderate symptoms such as a severe headache, vomiting, and dizziness. Importantly, difficulty of breathing, or sudden onset of a cough accompanied by a wheezing or crackling sound while breathing, is a reason to stop the ascent.

 5. Do not sleep, take a nap, or lie down while performing the summit assault. Do not be pressured to keep up with the pace of your companions, or of other people. The rule of trekking in high altitude is this: It's best to take it slowly.

6. Just bring the essentials during the assault. A heavy bag can make breathing more difficult, by adding more burden to muscles of breathing. Use your waist strap. Remember that there are only a few things you will need up the summit: some water, a bar or two of chocolate or other high- energy food, camera.

7. Acetazolamide (Diamox), although proven to hasten acclimatization, is not necessary in Mt. Kinabalu. Since it has side effects that can also affect your hiking, it must only be administered by an experienced medic. Almost everyone successfully reaches the summit without needing it. I do not recommend it for routine use in Mt. Kinabalu. Moreover, for those who have ambitions beyond Kinabalu, it would be nice to see your body's natural ability to adapt to high altitude without the aid of medications.

8. For those who want to make another attempt up Kinabalu, and for those who wish to maximize their chances of summiting, acclimatization is suggested. Climbing Mt. Pulag a week or two before the hike can be a good idea. Staying overnight at the Mt. Kinabalu Park HQ is also a beneficial strategy.

9. Taking the hike seriously is also a good perspective. As experienced hikers always say: never underestimate a mountain. No matter how often people say that Mt. Kinabalu is "commercialized", it is still a challenging hike. Ascending 2300 meters in two days is not a easy task. And if you are not prepared, you will experience difficulty of breathing even if it's not altitude sickness!

Conclusion: Mt. Kinabalu is a good first stab at high altitude; it is a rewarding, fairly accessible hike, and I highly recommend it. Following the steps I listed above will help in maximizing your chances at what I call the three S's of success: safety, summit, and smiles.


CLIMB HEALTH
Articles by Gideon Lasco, MD


Altitude sickness in Mt. Kinabalu


Gear Review: Deuter Futura 28 Daypack

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Deuter Futura 28 Daypack in Tinagong Dagat, Mt. Mandalagan
I had the opportunity to try out the Deuter Futura 28 Daypack on two very nice dayhikes in the past few months: Mt. Damas in Tarlac - on its first dayhike ever - and Mt. Mandalagan in Negros Occidental, one of the beautiful mountains in the island.

It did not disappoint.

The good thing about Deuter bags is that it is top quality in even small details, including the shoulder straps, the back ventilation system, and many other features. The product description says it best: "Consisting of a flexible, anatomically-shaped spring steel frame, the Futura 28's Aircomfort Back System hugs your torso and a mesh backpanel provides supportive tension. Air can freely escape through the space created between the pack body and your back, preventing heat build up."

Indeed, hikers who have tried a well-ventilated, well-constructed backpanel can really tell the difference. By sheer anatomic distribution of weight, and the physiologic concepts of heat flow, bags like this really improve performance. I have tried bags without this kind of thorough technical construction, and they feel heavier compared to a well-designed bag with the same weight.

 Even though it is just a daypack, and 28 liters at that, it has a front-access bottom compartment where you can stow wet gear, just like in bigger packs. This is a good feature. Also, it has another front-access pocket where you can put it some small items like a headlamp. Finally, it has an integrated rain cover! Very handy in the Philippines. My verdict is that it is a nice bag, a great daypack!


New stocks of PinoyMountaineer shirts now available at The Perfect White Shirt branches!

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I was informed by The Perfect White Shirt that there are new stocks for the PinoyMountaineer shirts, particularly Shirt. no. 8 (P350), and the PM Drifit shirts (P400)!

The Perfect White Shirt is available in Robinsons Manila, Alabang Town Center, Glorietta 3, Market! Market!, and Trinoma. Also, PM shirts are available in ROX Philippines (Baguio, The Fort, Cebu, and Pampanga) and Sandugo stores! See the list of branches here.




Essay: Mt. Romelo and Buruwisan Falls, ten years later

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Almost ten years ago, I climbed Mt. Romelo in an overnight trip that coincided with my 17th birthday. I was overwhelmed by the experience. Part of it was because hiking was still very new to me back then; it was only my fourth mountain. But another part was due to the fact that Mt. Romelo - which used to be called 'Famy' - truly possessed pristine beauty.

After that memorable hike, I was all the more convinced that hiking is a great activity that I wanted to be a lifelong passion.

I was able to return to Mt. Romelo in 2007, with the UP Med Outdoor Society. It was then still the beautiful mountain that I knew it was, even though I noticed that there were more facilities at the campsite, and the trails had become much wider, and muddier. My schoolmates enjoyed the experience.

Today, I climbed Mt. Romelo for the third day, hoping to see the same beauty that I saw in the past, and share it to my friends anew. However, instead of rekindling my nice memories of the mountain, I was quite disappointed with the condition of the mountain. It has become a much more commercialized place, and you can see the effects of this commercialization everywhere. The pristine 'Famy' of the olden days was nowhere to be found.

When we arrived, we were asked to give a registration fee of P50. Five years ago, it was only P10 or P20. Ten years ago, there was no fee. After writing our names on the logbook, we were asked to wear an ID which prominently featured the face of Siniloan's mayor. It was disgusting to see how politics finds its way even in hiking a mountain.

The trails were very muddy, because of the heavy traffic that it has to accommodate regularly: of horses and humans alike. This heavy traffic is indelibly linked to hiking activity: more locals now go up the mountain to sell food and drinks to mountaineers, among other things. Indeed, so many huts have been built along the trail, where the usual buco juice and Mountain Dew are sold.

Worse yet, the campsite at the mouth of Buruwisan Falls has been converted into a village, with many wooden houses and huts surrounding the river. There, you can buy liquor, camp supplies, and food. It was not exactly the sight you'd want to see before swimming in the catchbasin beneath. Unsurprisingly, the waters have become somewhat murky.

After the hike, we headed back to our vehicle, and we were surprised that we were being asked for 200 pesos for a few hours of parking. It immediately reminded me of Mt. Arayat, which has turned off a lot of hikers because of a similar profiteering attitude among the locals.

To be fair, not all of the locals are like that. I know that many locals in Mt. Romelo and Siniloan are sincerely wishing and working for a better environment  However, the fact that such attitudes exist speak of how hiking has changed the mindset of the community.

I love Mt. Romelo. On my first hike there, our team leader set up a rappel down Buruwisan Falls - an unforgettable experience on my 17th birthday. The night before, we were surrounded by hundreds of fireflies that hovered within the mango trees in the campsite. These memories are special to me, and so are the waterfalls that I think make Mt. Romelo a unique destination, with such rich waterforms so close to Metro Manila.

However, the present situation in Mt. Romelo leaves so much to be desired. To be fair, the theft issues seem to have been resolved, with a barangay official keeping watch at the campsite. Nevertheless, the Mt. Romelo of today seems to be designed for people who want to have fun and spend the night in the campsite, without much regard for the environment. I am not surprised that many of the hikers I know have tended to avoid Mt. Romelo, even as they fondly remember the way it was during the older days.

What happened in Mt. Romelo? Why did it come to this point? A complex issue such a mountain in trouble cannot be discussed in simplistic, oftentimes negativistic terms. Trying to nitpick about "who is responsible" is counter-productive. Instead, let us identify some things that I think we can do as a response to the situation.

"Leave No Trace" principles are very important, and I do agree that places as fragile as Mt. Romelo (and most mountains, for that matter) should have a limited number of people at any given time. "How many?", however, is something for which I cannot prescribe a exact number. Beyond these usual guidelines, I feel that hikers should stop patronizing the stores along the trail and in the campsite. This will arrest the influx of horses that devastate the trail and make it muddy-year round. This will also put a stop to the escalation of commercialization that is going on in Mt. Romelo. There is now electricity in the campsite. Today, they offer gin; tomorrow, they might offer videoke machines. We should make it clear that we do not condone these practices. We should not take part. We should also refuse to give in to unreasonable prices. For example, when we were asked for P200 for the few hours' parking, we said instead that we will only pay half, P100, and we voiced out that we think what they're asking is expensive.

Locals, on the other hand, should not deplete the goodwill of hikers by their patently profiteering attitudes. They need to be told that this will scare away hikers. Moreover, they must realize that the long-term sustainability of the mountain cannot be sacrificed for short-term gains. This strategy will backfire. We have seen a decline of people climbing Mt. Romelo because they have seen the long-term effects of tourism overgrowth. Surely, this people will not be lured by "better facilities" and more merchandise being sold.

Finally, the government needs to articulate its position on this matter, and act decisively either through the DENR or the local government unit. Protect the waterfalls! To the mayor whose face is on the IDs: You will make more impact if you mobilize the community towards a holistic approach in ecotourism that involves training guides in safety, first aid, and environmental awareness; educating the community about the perils of tourism explosion, and regulating the number of climbers that can stay in the campsite at any given time.

This is a shared responsibility, and I know that the solutions I presented are far from complete. But we have to start from somewhere. And I believe that individual actions count a lot. Importantly, Mt. Romelo represents the state of the mountains all over the country. It should at least give us a lot of think about.

Ten years can change a mountain. And it's up to us whether it would be for better or for worse.


Politicians, leave the mountains alone. Better yet, help protect them.

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After writing our names on the logbook in Mt. Romelo, we were asked to wear an ID which prominently featured the face of Siniloan's mayor. It was disgusting to see that politics finds its way even in climbing a mountain! Ironically, Mt. Romelo badly needs help from the  government. Mrs. Mayor, you will make a bigger impact if you will help rehabilitate the mountain. Putting your face on climbers' ID will only reinforce notions of politicians who do nothing except self-promotion and self-edification. 

We mountaineers get to travel around the country and we are able to see local politics at its best and at its worst. I am calling on all publicly-elected officials to please spare the mountains from the dirty politicking, the "epal" that has plagued our country. Better yet, please help our cause of protecting our mountains. We appreciate politicians who champion the cause of the environment, because it is one of most pressing problems our country is facing right now. 


Hiking matters #303: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse - Day 1

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In the Philippines, hiking the major peaks of Mindanao is one of my priorities, and when I was informed by my good friend Mijan Pizarro, the Northern Mindanao explorer who now works with the DENR in Malaybalay, that it is now possible to climb Mt. Maagnaw, at 2742 MASL the eigth highest mountain in the Philippines, I immediately said yes and organized a trip to the mountain. Joining me were my hiking companion Jacob Sarreal, mountain guides Jhoc Nalda and Osep Reyes, and Red Valera.
I arrived in Cagayan de Oro on October 20, and proceeded the following day to Malaybalay, where we met with Mijan and his wife and one-month old baby. He handed to us our permit from the DENR. The next way, we headed to Brgy. Songco, Lantapan, Bukidnon and proceeded to the jumpoff of Mt. Maagnaw. We gave a donation to the datu as "entry fee", and met our guide Lito Saway - the guide of all the Maagnaw hikes since Mijan and Johannes spurred the recent spate of explorations of the mountain in 2009. According to Lito, ours was the sixth hiking party to ascend Maagnaw since Mijan and Johannes'.

We started trekking at 0930H, at around a starting altitude of 1350m. Not longer after, we entered a forest very similar to that of Mt. Dulang-Dulang. The trail was quite established, and not so difficult. At first it wasn't "mossy", but it became increasingly so, and from 1500-1800 MASL we saw a lot of birds, including the Mountain white-Eye, Sulfur-billed nuthatch, Mountain leaf-warbler, and the Philippine fairy bluebird.

We had lunch at the halfway water source, and eventually emerged into  ridge. Had the skies been clear, we would have seen Dulang-Dulang and Kitanglad, but we enjoyed the mossy forests despite the gloomy weather.


By 1630H, we reached the Langkayugan campsite (Camp 1) and set up camp here. We then prepared for a longer Day 2, where we would ascend up the massif of Mt. Maagnaw.

MT. MAAGNAW TRAVERSE (2012)
Hiking matters #303: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse, Day 1
Hiking matters #304: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse, Day 2
Hiking matters #305: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse, Day 3


Collect the PinoyMountaineer shirts and share the passion for the peaks!

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Collect the PinoyMountaineer shirts - "the visual representations of the outdoor spirit that we envision and cherish; they are the canvas by which we express and attempt to capture, then share, the beauty and adventure that we experience in and with the mountains." Since it was first launched in July 2011, there have been eight numbered shirts and two dri-fit shirts:

The numbered shirts are retailed at PHP350 whereas the dri-fit shirts are pegged at PHP400 each.

Click on the links for each shirt to see more details!

PINOYMOUNTAINEER NUMBERED SHIRTS
Shirt no.1: Don't change the mountain
Shirt no. 2: Take nothing  but pictures
Shirt no. 3: I love the mountains
Shirt no. 4: Hike
Shirt no. 5: It's more fun in the Philippine mountains
Shirt no. 6: For the love of hiking
Shirt no. 7: Get High
Shirt no. 8: Mountaineer
Buti na lang may climb bukas

DRI FIT SHIRTS
Dri Fit no. 1: Classic
Dri Fit no. 2: Tri-color



PINOYMOUNTAINEER SHIRT OUTLETS
Note: To ensure availabillity of your chosen designs/sizes, it is best to make inquiries first by email (shirts@pinoymountaineer.com) or by mobile (09178545696)

METRO MANILA

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5. Robinsons Place Ermita - Padre Faura Wing, First Level, in front of Goldilocks

B. R.O.X. Philippines at Bonifacio High Street, The Fort, Taguig City

C. Selected Sandugo Outdoor Shop branches

LUZON

1. R.O.X. Philippines in Camp John Hay, Baguio City
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VISAYAS

1. R.O.X. Philippines at Ayala Center Cebu City

MINDANAO 

1. Viajero Outdoor Store, Cagayan de Oro
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3. RJ Treehouse Outdoor Shop in Pagadian City

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PinoyMountaineer Birder's List

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To further my appreciation of the forests and the fauna that I encounter along the trail and as an end in itself, I have begun taking up birding in 2012. I would like to thank my friends Paula Peralejo and Charlie Fernandez for introducing me to this fascinating hobby. The mountains feel more alive to me now that I am aware of the presence of the birds, yet, in seeking and sensing these birds, I realize all the more how fragile the forest ecosystem is, and how important it is to practice responsible outdoor recreation. 

The following list tabulates all the birds that I have spotted with a fair degree of confidence in identification. My purpose for posting this is twofold: first, for myself, to keep track of my lifers; and second, it may also be of use to birders since I am reporting birds that I have spotted mainly in the mountains that I have climbed.

Disclaimer: As a novice in this hobby, I may be mistaken in the identification and nomenclature of these birds. If you think this is the case, your inputs are most welcome. 

LIST OF BIRDS SPOTTED 

1. Mountain white-eye - Mt. Ugo, March 2012 (Mt. Maagnaw, Oct. 2012)
2. Black-naped oriole - Mt. Tagapo, March 2012
3. Brahminy kite - Mt. Hibok-Hibok, May 2012
4. Barn swallow - Mt. Talamitam, May 2012
5. Philippine cuckoo dove - Mt. Bulusan, June 2012
6. Spotted wood-kingfisher - Mt. Bulusan, June 2012
7. Osprey - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
8. Ashy ground-thrush - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
9. Rufous night-heron - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
10. Little egret - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
11. Barred rail - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
12. Pied fantail - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
13. Little heron - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
14. Common sandpiper - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
15. Zebra dove - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
16. White-breasted water hen - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
17. Brown Shrike - La Mesa Eco-Park, October 2012
18. Olive-backed sunbird - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
19. Lowland white eye - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
20. Stripe-headed rhabdornis - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
21. Yellow-vented bulbul - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
22. Pied triller - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
23. Ashy minivet - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
24. White-collared kingfisher - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
25. White-throated kingfisher - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
26. Cattle egret - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, October 2012
27. Apo sunbird - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
28. Cinnamon ibon - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
29. Philippine fairy bluebird - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
30. Mountain leaf warbler - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
31. Mountain shrike - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
32. Elegant tit - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
33. Sulfur-billed nuthatch - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
34. Colasisi - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
35. Bar-bellied cuckoo-shrike - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
36. Mountain tailorbird - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
37. Mountain verditer-flycatcher - Mt. Maagnaw/Kitanglad Range, October 2012
38, Striated grassbird - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
39. Balicassiao - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
40. Coppersmith barbet - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
41. White-bellied munya - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
42. Scaly-breasted munya - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
43. Long-tailed shrike - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
44. Gray wagtail - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
45. Richard's pipit - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
46. White-breasted wood-swallow - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
47. Red-keeled flowerpecker - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
48. Red-crested malkoha -  - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
49. Golden-bellied flyeater - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012
50. Eurasian tree sparrow - Mt. Makiling/Los Banos, November 2012


Join me in Twin Dayhikes IV (Mabilog and Kalisungan) on December 8, 2012

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The Twin Dayhikes series continues with Twin Dayhikes IV: Mt. Mabilog and Mt. Kalisungan on December 8, 2012! Join me in this exciting Trail Adventours daytrip in Laguna province that features awesome views of the Seven Lakes of San Pablo from two vantage points: the summits of these two mountains, which will be in a combined itinerary for the first time.

Limited slots are available! Visit the Trail Adventours website for bookings and inquiries! You can also email info@trailadventours.com for more details.


Hiking matters #304: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse Day 2 - Through the Langkayugan Ridge to the Maagnaw high camp

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On the second day of our Mt. Maagnaw traverse, we woke up to good weather at the Langkayugan campsite, and after a hearty breakfast, we descended for a hundred meters only to ascend again, reaching the first peak of the trek: Langkayugan Peak, which is well over 2550 MASL.

By this time, however, the clouds had began to obscure what would have been nice views of the Kitanglad range. Even so, we enjoyed the trekking highlight of the whole climb: crossing the ridges until we reached the base of Mt. Maagnaw summit.
According to our guide Lito, Mt. Maagnaw is really rarely climbed, because for a long time, there was a 'tribal war' among some of the communities, and there were also security concerns. In fact, he claims that we are only the sixth group to ascend the mountain, but I have some doubts that: I think there may be more.

The trail was beautiful: mossy forests that combine with grassy ridges to create a very pleasant trail. Although at times the density of the overgrowth and the difficulty of the trail reaches that of the veritable Talomo-Apo Traverse, it was generally (and surprisingly) easy and does not merit a Difficulty 9/9.

We had lunch along the way -- at Camp 2, where the trail from the Dulang-Dulang summit converges with our trail. Stopping there reminded me of one of my dream climbs in Mindanao: a Kitanglad-Dulang-Dulang-Maagnaw traverse. Actually, even a D2M traverse will do: Lito told me that there are many birds in the dense and pristine upper montane forests between D2 and Maagnaw.

It started raining, even as we pushed towards the ridges again. By 1400H, we were already at the Maagnaw summit base, even though the summit wouldn't be at hand for another 2-3 hours. The trail consisted mainly of grassland ridges, akin to the open peaks of Kalatungan and Wiji. The weather, still uncooperative, and with it some strong winds, led us to camp 30 minutes beneath the summit, instead of the summit itself. Little did we know that a typhoon was approaching Visayas and Mindanao during that day.

And so, we found ourselves camped at a montane forest campsite - beautiful, to be sure - and 30 minutes short of the 8th highest peak in the Philippines. It rained the whole night, but we prayed for a clearing the next day. Who would not miss the chance to see Mindanao's highest peaks from atop one of them?


MT. MAAGNAW TRAVERSE (2012)

Hiking matters #303: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse, Day 1
Hiking matters #304: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse, Day 2
Hiking matters #305: Mt. Maagnaw Traverse, Day 3



Mt. Lobo/Bangkalan Peak and Nagpatong Peak (710+)

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MT. LOBO (BANGALAKAN PEAK & NAGPATONG PEAK)
Lobo, Batangas
Major jumpoff: Curba, Brgy. Nagtaluntong, Lobo
LLA: 710m (Nagpatong); 670m (Bangkalan)
Days required / Hours to peak: 1-2 days / 3-4h (B); 3-4.5h (N)
Specs: Minor climb, Difficulty 4/9, Trail class 1-3
Features: Scenic views, tropical forests, streams
Article history: Created November 11, 2012

BACKGROUND
There are three proximate, almost interconnecting mountains in Southern Batangas, straddling the southern coast of Luzon: from east to west, Mt. Daguldol, Mt. Lobo, and Mt. Banoi. Locals actually refer to the entire mountainous area as Lobo, further suggesting the unity of these peaks.

Daguldol has been a hikers' favorite since the early 2000s (see Hiking matters #239). The two others, however, has been left in near-obscurity, probably because of the difficulty in accessing the town of Lobo, which is 35 kilometers away from Batangas via difficult roads. However, the improvements in roads and highways, particularly the integrated SLEX-Star Tollway, has significantly decreased travel time, once again placing Banoi and Lobo within striking range, either as a dayhike or an overnight.

In 2011, I climbed Mt. Banoi, reaching its summit via the Old Towers' Peak (see Hiking matters #153). In 2012, I returned to do a hike up Lobo, reaching the Nagpatong (Patong) Peak, 710 MASL. I also asked for the Bangkalan Peak, which I have heard from other hikers. It turns out that there are the main trail forks into two different peaks, both of which are worthy destinations. To further complicate things, there is what people call 'Gulugod Baboy' - the very peak of Mt. Lobo, as well as Mt. Naguiling, of old accounts, and finally, a traverse to Mt. Daguldol, so as not to confuse hikers who are interested in Mt. Lobo, this page is an effort to integrate what we know of this exciting mountain range and its several peaks.

I was pleasantly surprised by the pristine beauty of Mt. Lobo. Its trail offers a diversity of environments: clean, pleasant streams, moderately-sloped trails that offer a view of the forest canopy, and peaks and viewpoints with nice views of practically all of Batangas province, the Verde Island passage, as well as many Southern Tagalog mountains. Moreover, the flora and fauna in the mountain are spectacular: you can see many birds from the jumpoff to the summit. On late afternoons and early mornings, you may also hear the monkeys who reside deep in the forests.

The trail up Mt. Lobo starts at Curba, Brgy. Na, Lobo, Batangas, although a jeepney or a 4x4 vehicle can drive through the river, go past the elementary school, and reach the true jumpoff, Sitio Kastila. From here, the trail immediately passes through a nice, clear stream. The first highlight of the trail is a small waterfalls called 'Katiting Falls', with a nice pool where hikers can bathe after the hike. Past the river, the trail would lead to a sloped woodland which is right beside a gorge. For birders, this is a perfect birding spot as the expanse of the canopy is brought into the fore. Interestingly, electric cables and poles can be found along the trail, for Mt. Lobo, like Mt. Banoi, is a 'living mountain' in the sense that there are houses and small communities all the way to within 30 minutes of the peak. Of course, this also means that there are many water sources.

The trails to Bangkalan and Nagpatong Peaks diverge in what is known as 'Dalawang Daan', in which the leftward trail leads to Bangkalan, and the rightward one goes to Nagpatong. The trails are quite similar either way, but Bangkalan has a wider campsite compared to the infrequently hiked Nagpatong. Atop either peaks, the view is spectacular: a prominent Mt. Maculot (NW), Mt. Malipunyo and Mt. Makiling behind it on its left side (NNE), Mts. Kalisungan and Atimla, and even the Seven Lakes of San Pablo seen as faint bands in the ground (NNE), Mts. Cristobal and Banahaw (NE), and, much more proximally, the higher peaks of Lobo, eclipsing Mt. Daguldol (E). To the south lies the Verde Island passage, with Verde Island itself and behind it, Northern Mindoro. On a clear day, Mt. Malasimbo and even Mt. Halcon can be seen (SSW). Meanwhile, one can appreciate Mt. Banoi as the large mountain west -- completing the beautiful spectacle.

For hikers who decide to go to Bangkalan Peak, there is the additional challenge of trying to reach Gulugod Baboy, which we are tentatively considering the summit of Mt. Lobo, pending further information on the elevations of its other peaks. From the Bangkalan Peak campsite, this peak is another one hour or so, and can be assaulted with light packs.

MT. LOBO ITINERARIES 

DAYHIKE: NAGPATONG PEAK

0400 From Manila, take bus to Batangas City
0530 Drop off at Balagtas. Take jeep to Lobo Jeepney Terminal
0600 From Lobo Jeepney Terminal, take jeep to Lobo
0700 ETA Lobo.Take tricycle to "Curba, Brgy. Nagtaluntong"
0730 ETA jumpoff. Register at brgy hall/military outpost.
0800 Start trek
0845 ETA Katiting Falls
1000 ETA Dalawang Daan
1100 ETA Bahay ni Aling Marisa (Sitio Santolan)
1200 Arrival at Nagpatong Peak (710m) / Lunch
1230 Start descent
1300 Back at Sitio Santolan
1415 Back at Katiting Falls - swim/relax/rest
1530 Back at Curba. Tidy up.
1600 Take tricycle to Lobo
1700 Last trip Lobo to Batangas City
1800 ETA Batangas City. Take jeep to Balagtas Junction
1820 Dinner / Take bus back to Manila
2100 ETA Manila

DAYHIKE: BANGKALAN PEAK

0400 From Manila, take bus to Batangas City
0530 Drop off at Balagtas. Take jeep to Lobo Jeepney Terminal
0600 From Lobo Jeepney Terminal, take jeep to Lobo
0700 ETA Lobo.Take tricycle to "Curba, Brgy. Nagtaluntong"
0730 ETA jumpoff. Register at brgy hall/military outpost.
0800 Start trek
0845 ETA Katiting Falls
1000 ETA Dalawang Daan
1130 Arrival at Bangkalan (670m) / Lunch
1230 Start descent
1400 Back at Katiting Falls - swim/relax/rest
1530 Back at Curba. Tidy up.
1600 Take tricycle to Lobo
1700 Last trip Lobo to Batangas City
1800 ETA Batangas City. Take jeep to Balagtas Junction
1820 Dinner / Take bus back to Manila
2100 ETA Manila

OVERNIGHT: NAGPATONG PEAK

Day 1
0400 From Manila, take bus to Batangas City
0530 Drop off at Balagtas. Take jeep to Lobo Jeepney Terminal
0600 From Lobo Jeepney Terminal, take jeep to Lobo
0700 ETA Lobo. Buy supplies
0730 Take tricycle to "Curba, Brgy. Nagtaluntong"
0800 ETA jumpoff. Register at brgy hall/military outpost.
0830 Start trek
0915 ETA Katiting Falls
1030 ETA Dalawang Daan
1200 ETA Bahay ni Aling Marisa (Sitio Santolan). Lunch
1330 Resume trek
1500 Arrival at Nagpatong Peak (710m) / Set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0530 Wake up call / Sunrise viewing
0700 Heavy breakfast / Break camp
0800 Start descent
1000 Back at Katiting Falls - swim/relax/rest
1100 Back at Curba. Tidy up.
1130 Take tricycle to Lobo
1200 Take jeep Lobo to Batangas City
1300 Lunch at Batangas City
1400 Take jeep to Balagtas Junction
1430 Bus back to Manila
1700 ETA Manila

OVERNIGHT: BANGKALAN PEAK + SUMMIT ATTEMPT

Day 1
0400 From Manila, take bus to Batangas City
0530 Drop off at Balagtas. Take jeep to Lobo Jeepney Terminal
0600 From Lobo Jeepney Terminal, take jeep to Lobo
0700 ETA Lobo. Buy supplies
0730 Take tricycle to "Curba, Brgy. Nagtaluntong"
0800 ETA jumpoff. Register at brgy hall/military outpost.
0830 Start trek
0915 ETA Katiting Falls
1030 ETA Dalawang Daan
1230 Arrival at / Set up camp
1400 Head for Gulugod Baboy (summit)*
1600 Arrival at summit
1730 Back at Bangkalan Peak
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0530 Wake up call / Sunrise viewing
0700 Heavy breakfast / Break camp
0800 Start descent
1000 Back at Katiting Falls - swim/relax/rest
1100 Back at Curba. Tidy up.
1130 Take tricycle to Lobo
1200 Take jeep Lobo to Batangas City
1300 Lunch at Batangas City
1400 Take jeep to Balagtas Junction
1430 Bus back to Manila
1700 ETA Manila

*Check with your guide if it is possible to access the summit.

PRACTICALITIES

Getting there. From Manila, transportation to Mt. Lobo is a matter of getting to Batangas City by bus (110 kms, 160 pesos, 2 hours), then taking a jeep from Batangas to the town of Lobo (35 kms, 56 pesos, 1 hour, last trip: 1700H). Finally, from Lobo, take a jeep or tricycle to the jumpoff (<5 kms, 30 mins).

Guides and registration. Hikers and visitors in Brgy. Nagtaluntong are encourged to register with the barangay officials and the military outpost. Jay Bondoc is the guide for Mt. Lobo, and he guided me personally in November 10, 2012. He may be reached at +639062536678. As of Nov. 2012, there are no registration fees being collected by the barangay. Getting a guide is not required by the barangay.

Camping notes. There are plenty of water sources in Mt. Lobo. There are campsites at the peaks, and it is also possible to camp near the houses along the trail in Sitio Santolan. Cellphone signal is present throughout the trail.

Hiking notes. The trail is fairly easy but quite long for a dayhike and the trails are well-established, except in the last 30 minutes (for Nagpatong Peak).

MT. LOBO PICTURES
Katiting Falls, one of the landmarks of the trail.

About to reach Nagpatong Peak. Note the beautiful grassy slopes.

The blogger at Nagpatong Peak, Mt. Lobo, 710 MASL



TRIVIA
According to our guide, it is also possible to do a traverse from Mt. Lobo to Mt. Daguldol. This can be something for hikers to pursue -- and Laiya beach is waiting on the other side. There is also another traverse trail that descends to the south, on another beach but within the municipality of Lobo. Finally, another peak, called 'Nagtuktok Peak', is also a potential destination for hikers.




Sir, Magkano Budget? The PinoyMountaineer Table of Hiking Expenses

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by Gideon Lasco

To make things easier for hikers, I am posting this page that compares the budgets of different mountains that are within dayhike range of Manila. I will continue to improve this page as time goes by. Assumptions: Group of 7 hikers, public transportation (as of Nov. 2012), without guide whenever possible, food expenses at 300/day (regardless as camp meals, trail food, or dine-ins), margin of error: +/- 75 pesos. Inclusions in the calculation: Transportation from the bus terminals in Manila, registration fees, guide fees, food allowance of 300/day. You can still lower your budgets by cutting down on food and other expenses.

Note: This table is still under construction. Eventually, I will include all the mountains with an itinerary in PinoyMountaineer.com. Usual disclaimers apply: This is meant to be just a guide and is not a guarantee that the costs will be as stated.

See also: Ten tips for a budget-friendly climb

HIKING EXPENSES, BY DESTINATION
HikeBudget (Dayhike)Budget (Overnight)
MakTrav550850
Kalisungan550850
Romelo580880
Manabu600900
Malipunyo600900
Batulao600900
Talamitam600900
Balagbag600900
Tagapo610910
Maculot610910
Manalmon620920
Sembano650950
Arayat650950
Tarak Ridge690990
Marami7201020
Natib7201020
Pantingan Pk7401040
Pico de Loro7401040
Buntis & Nagpatong7601060
Damas7901090
Mabilog8001100
Daguldol8501150
Lobo8501150
Banoi8501150
Cristobal 9801280
Palali10501350
Tapulao12001500


Climb Advisory (Nov 2012): Thefts still reported in Mt. Romelo / Be careful this Christmas season!

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PinoyMountaineer.com periodically issues "Hiking advisories" as a form of warning to fellow climbers as regards conditions in various mountains. However, they are a matter of personal opinion and must be read in that light.


We have closely followed the situation in Mt. Romelo. Our last climb advisory last 2011 stated that thefts continue to be reported, and unfortunately, that is still the case until now. We have just received a report of theft last November 10, and also before that. Despite the assurances of Siniloan town that they are 'securing the mountain' with barangay tanods (and collecting a P50 fee per hiker for that, there is no reason to feel safer in Romelo now compared to previous years.

From our previous advisory: "The history of theft in Mt. Sembrano is very long. On March 9, 2009, a Hiking Advisory was also issued, after several reports of theft. As for Mt. Romelo, there have also been countless reports of theft since 2004; our alarm has been more heigtened with reports of recent theft (Dec. 23, Dec. 27, Jan 3, etc.) Several complaints have been filed last year but there has not been any improvement in the situation.

"The thefts were usually during the evening, and they almost always take place at the campsites. There have been no reports of open assaults or holdups. Nonetheless, this thievery is an affront to the healthy relationship that must exist between mountaineers and locals. We appeal to the local governments in Pililla, Rizal and Siniloan, Laguna, to intensify efforts to make these hiking destinations a safe place to be enjoyed by mountaineers and locals alike."

Especially now that Christmas is nearing, for the time being we STRONGLY DISCOURAGE climbers to hike, and especially to camp, in Mt. Romelo. We are not afraid of petty thieves but we must show the locals in all mountaineering destinations that they have a responsibility to maintain peace and order if they wish to have visitors in their place. Climbers are encouraged to pressure the local officials to act by reiterating our collective desire for security and our indignation against thievery. On the other hand, securing your belongings and not bringing unnecessary items and valuables during your climb must also be done, and as part of reponsible outdoor recreation, this applies to all mountains. 


Hiking matters #306: Metacomet-Monadnock Trail in Massachusetts: Mt. Norwottuck and Mt. Holyoke Range

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AMHERST, MA - A day after I arrived in Massachusetts from Manila, I did my first hike in the United States: A very nice traverse through the Mt. Holyoke Range via a really nice section of Metacomet-Monadnock Trail. This trail runs a whopping 183 kilometers (the distance between Manila and La Union) but I just did around 11 miles (18 kms), passing through the length of two state parks the Mt. Holyoke Range State Park and the Skinner State Park. This blog post describes the first part of this long dayhike.

My sister drove me to Harris Mountain Road in Amherst until we reached the trailhead for the Metacomet-Monadnock Trail (commonly known as the 'M-M trail') which coincides with a good section of the beautifully christened Robert Frost Trail. Frost, one of my favorite American poets, taught in nearby Amherst College and lived in the area -- and so did Emily Dickinson!
So I started trekking at around 0930H. Now that it's almost winter here, the days are short, and by 1600H or so, the sun would begin to set. So there was a bit of time pressure. But I was quite happy with the temperature -- which at daytime hovered from 1 to -5 Celsius. At first I donned a light fleece shirt over my base layer, but as soon as I warmed up, I took it off. 
I hiked alone, which I didn't mind since I was confident that the trails were well-established. The only problem with solo hikes is that you don't get to take pictures of yourself, but that's easily solved by cameras with self-timers. Besides, who would mind having to trek through a beautiful place that inspired some great poetry? Emily Dickinson, in a poem she penned titled "The Mountain", perhaps she had the vast plains of Massachusetts and small but imposing Mt. Holyoke in mind with this verse :

The mountain sat upon the plain
In his eternal chair,
His observation omnifold,
His inquest everywhere.
As I started trekking, a pileated woodpecker greeted me -- there were several of them I encountered throughout the hike. There were many other birds, and I regretted not bringing my binoculars! The squirrels scurried through the woods. This will be my America, I thought: the great outdoors, the wilderness, away from the citadels of the modern world and the sound and the fury. I basked at the cold air, the trees bereft of leaves, and the endless trail. Each mountain is a poem, and hiking is poetry in motion. 
The first peak of the day was the 920-foot Long Mountain. From this high point, I could see Mt. Norwuttuck, the highest point in the Holyoke Range at 1106 ft; as well as the surrounding plains. I went on, encountering some challenging, rocky parts of the trail, interrupting the otherwise gradual and easy trail. The most notable part of this leg is the Horse Caves, which consists of some rocky ledges that somehow figured in the American Revolution. 
Finally, I reached Mt. Norwottuck. I rested for a while, trying to identify the surrounding towns: Hadley, South Hadley, and Amherst, as well as notable areas like the University of Massachusetts - Amherst campus, and Amherst College. It was very nice to be there, and I am thankful to God for giving me great weather.

From Mt. Norwottuck, it was an easy descent to Notch Visitors Center, where I had lunch, at 1230H. It was the end of the hike, and the beginning of another: the Seven Sisters' Traverse, which I will be describing in Hiking matters #307.


METACOMET-MONADNOCK TRAIL | MA
Hiking matters #306: Mt. Norwottuck, Mt. Holyoke Range
Hiking matters #307: Seven Sisters Traverse and Mt. Holyoke


Hiking matters #307: Metacomet-Monadnock Trail in Massachusetts: The Seven Sisters Traverse

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AMHERST, MA - Continuing my hike of the Mt. Holyoke Range (see Hiking matters #306), after a nice and quick lunch, I went up Bare Mountain using the same Metacomet-Monadnock Trail from Notch Visitors Center. This time, having crossed over from the Mt. Holyoke Range State Park, I entered the Skinner State Park. I continue the trek on an east-to-west direction.

This section of the trek is known as the 'Seven Sisters Traverse' because the range looks like seven peaks when viewed from the lowlands. Actually, however, I couldn't identify which peaks these seven were, for I counted more (at least nine) peaks in this trek that was full of up and downs, and is more challenging than the previous trek from Long Mountain.

The first peak, or 'sister', was Bare Mountain, which was just 30 minutes or so away from the Notch Visitors Center. From here, the view of Mt. Norwottuck was beautiful, and I caught my first glimpse of the lovely Connecticut River. As in Norwottuck, I was treated to a nice panorama of the nearby towns, and the vast plains of Massachusetts.

Then, the ridge walk ensued, something which Section Hiker describes as "surprisingly difficult" -- and I kinda agree with him. Especially with the time pressure I had, and the sleepless, exhausting travel from Manila, it gave me a challenge which would later make this hike more special. The sun was fast descending, and I didn't have time for photos, let alone more self-portraits! Anyway, the peaks more or less looked the same.

At 1515H, I arrived at Mt. Holyoke, the last of the Seven Sisters, and site of the 'Summit House', a notable building that was once a popular mountain hotel, with a monorail to boot. Then, at 1535H, I started descending, reaching the entrance of the park by 1610H, where my sister Christine was waiting. I thank her and my brother-in-law Neal for making this trip happen! We headed to Amherst for dinner and groceries, and for the first time in a long while, I had a good night's rest.


Perhaps, as a fitting end to the day's fantastic hikes, let me quote a verse from Robert Frost's "The Sound of the Trees" in Mountain Interval (1920):

I shall set forth for somewhere,
I shall make the reckless choice      
Some day when they are in voice
And tossing so as to scare
The white clouds over them on.
I shall have less to say,
But I shall be gone.


METACOMET-MONADNOCK TRAIL | MA
Hiking matters #306: Mt. Norwottuck, Mt. Holyoke Range
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