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MountainTalk #13: Romi Garduce on his book launch and future plans

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Photo courtesy of Romi Garduce
AMSTERDAM - October 3, 2013 saw the book launch of Romi Garduce's "Akyat", subtitled "A Filipino's Journey to the Seven Summits". This highly-anticipated book chronicles Romi's journeys to the highest mountains of each of the continents, becoming the first (and so far the only) Filipino to do so. I would have wanted to attend the launch (and get a signed copy of the book) but unfortunately I had already left for Europe just a few days before. Here are some questions I threw to Romi by email following the launch:

1. Congratulations on your book launch. Writing the book must have taken a lot of discipline and dedication! How did you manage it? 
It TOOK ME 7 YEARS, patience is truly a virtue ;) What helped were my occasional writing of climb stories, and comments from my reviewers/editors.
  
2. Do you write journal entries during your expeditions?  
I DON’T ACTUALLY, and I realized that I don’t need it.  I did chronicle my climbs a few months, even years after.

3. Where can mountaineers get hold of your book? 
The book is available in R.O.X. Philippines in Taguig, Central Books in Quezon Avenue, Quezon City, and more outlets in the future. You can also directly order from Romi by emailing him at romi.garduch@gmail.com. For more details: http://romigarduce.blogspot.sg/2013/10/book-title-akyat-filipinos-journey-to.html

4. Aside from your book, you've also recently reinvigorated your web presence. Can you tell us about your blog?
THE BLOG is my medium to share/ educate and campaign for various things.  It’s my way to reach out and share what I’ve learned. You visit the blog here.

5. What's next for Romy Garduce?
Nothing big yet. The most immediate perhaps is to pursue the idea of an alpine mountaineering course for Filipinos late next year.  I’ll most likely offer a class, part in Philippines, part in Nepal. For beginners and advanced, the latter will include a climb of 7000m peak.

Hiking matters #372: A nature walk in Flanders, Belgium

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AMSTERDAM - It's been two weeks since I left the country for Europe - where I am studying/working for my PhD in medical anthropology - and happily, I somehow managed to go on a short hike - of all the places, in the region of Flanders, Belgium. The Netherlands literally means 'lowlands' and I may very well be below sea level from where I am writing this piece - but as I am discovering, there are a lot of places to go on nature walks - what the Dutch would call het wandelen. These walks, in fact, can run up to several hundred kilometers!

Last weekend, I found myself in the little town of Oudenaarde, in Flanders, Belgium where fortunately I found some trails to explore. They are very flat, of course, but the woods are a nice respite from Amsterdam's brick-and-stone world - even though that is very lovely in its own way.

Without a summit to look forward to, these trails are more "existential" in the sense that you will pay more attention to the here and the now, and take delight in small things like a passing bird or squirrel, or the unique flora - though coming the Philippines, I must admit that such delights are hard to come by. The changing colors of fall, though, are something to anticipate. Meanwhile I have some exciting - and more real - hikes planned next week - in another country!

Hiking matters #373: Hiking in Capri Day 1 - Monte Solaro

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AMSTERDAM - The nice thing about Europe is that the countries are just close to each other and with the advent of budget airlines, traveling around the continent is as easy as flying from Luzon to Mindanao. My previous trips to Europe were short and I wasn't able to take advantage of this geographic configuration, but now that I am here for a while - and while it is not yet winter - I realized that I should make the most of time.
 
So last weekend I went to Rome, visiting the ruins of the Roman Empire as well as Vatican City. From Rome, I took the train to Naples to do some hikes. I chose the island of Capri as my first destination as it is very accessible from Naples, easy to cover in one or two days, and of course, beautiful - why else would it be the vacation place of Roman emperors? The ferry from Naples to Capri took 50 minutes, and immediately after disembarking, I began my trek around the island.
My initial goal was Monte Solaro, at 589 MASL the highest point in the island. Since Capri is really a tourist destination, you can take a bus to Anacapri then a funicular to reach the very top of it, but I decided on the more enjoyable way - traversing the island while I'm at it. From Capri, I followed the provincial road to Anacapri, finding some nice trails along the way, including the Scala Fenicia to Villa San Michelle. 
At Villa San Michelle, I munched on a slice of Pizza Napoli (which I bought in Napoli) and had some lemonade which is apparently a local delicacy (they do grow lemons and oranges and I saw some orchards along the way). Then I proceeded to Monte Solaro. The trail is made for tourists and is very easy, so I took my time to enjoy the views of Anacapri and the Mediterranean sea. 
Monte Solaro itself was disappointing as there is even a cafe up there - and the clouds were blocking the fabled views so I instead proceeded to Monte Cappello, with some nice limestone formations and that is where I took my pictures (yes, a camera timer can work wonders). In all, I had a good six hours of walking - which is not bad at all! Back in Capri I had a nice dinner (and Pistachio gelato) to celebrate my day of hiking, and retired early so I can await the sunrise in another part of the island - and that's for the next post!

Hiking matters #374: Hiking in Capri Day 2 - Via Krupp to Marina Piccola

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On the morning after my island walk that took me to Monte Solaro (see Hiking matters #373), I woke up early to explore the southern coast, which also had nice trails. I particularly wanted to see the sun rise behind the Faraglioni - an islet on the southeast that is one of the most scenic vistas in the island.  The famous trail - winding down the cliff- is called Via Krupp, which is over a hundred years old, and has a curious history of being a secret passageway to a grotto where sex orgies with local youths.
I was rewarded with views of the sunrise just as I had finished trekking down the winding path. And I then I continued walking towards the direction of Marina Piccola - the 'small port'. Along the way the path remained mesmerizing as the sun illuminated the coastline. I also came across a park where an image of Lenin was on display - apparently the Soviet Union founder also stayed there.
I walked further until the scenic trial gave way to the village in Marina Piccola. I made a right turn to connect back to Capri where I was staying. Along the way I saw cloud-capped Monte Solaro, and the same streets lined with villas and boutiques that make for a distinctive feel of Capri. My entire morning peregrination took just over two hours, and I was back in my hotel in time for a late breakfast.
It would have been very nice to stay for one or two more days in Capri and explore the other sights: Villa Jovis, the lighthouse on the southwest, and more, all by foot. But that unfulfilled desire to stay longer is exactly the stuff that makes places special. When I took the ferry back to Naples on that day I knew that I will always cherish my two days in the island of Capri.

CAPRI AND MT. VESUVIUS (AUTUMN 2013)
Hiking matters #373: Capri Day 1 - Monte Solaro
Hiking matters #374: Capri Day 2 - Via Krupp
Hiking matters #375: Hiking up Mount Vesuvius 

Hiking matters #375: The hike up Mt. Vesuvius and a visit to Pompeii, Italy

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AMSTERDAM - On the last day of my short trip to Rome and Naples, after two memorable days in the island of Capri, I hiked up Mt. Vesuvius and then visited the town of Pompeii. From Napoli Centrale train station, I took the Circumvesuviana train line, got off at Ercolano Scavi station, then booked a bus trip to Vesuvius, which for 20 EUR included the entrance to the Vesuvius National Park. I met Katherine in Ercolano and we did the hike together.

Mt. Vesuvius - Monte Vesuvio in Italian - is the only active volcano in the European mainland, and is famous for its eruption in AD. 79 that destroyed the town of Pompeii. Ironically, this act of destruction led to the preservation of the town, making it an archaeological goldmine - a literal slice of life in the Roman Empire.
As hiking destinations, volcanoes have a distinct flavor. They are usually straightforward ascents to the top - although some, like Kanlaon, are complex volcanoes that include very long trails. At first, the trail may be grassy or forested, but the final leg is usually all rock and volcanic sand - think Mayon or Fuji. And the most awesome attraction of all is the crater. Literally an opening from the Earth itself, there is something powerful about craters; they remind us of powers that are beyond our reckoning.
There is also a kind of build-up as you hike up a volcano, as the crater gets nearer, and as the green gives way to gray. But in Mt. Vesuvius, the 'forest' part of the trail has been cut off; instead, it is directly an assault to the crater, with less than 300 meters to gain. As a hiker, I would have wanted something more substantial, but as a history enthusiast, it did not matter; I would have climbed it in any case.
The trails are very wide and easy; hundreds of people do the hike every day, unless Vesuvius is showing signs of volcanic activity - thankfully this hasn't happened since 1944 when the volcano inadvertently participated in World War II, destroying 80 American aircraft. The volcano also thwarted an Olympic Games in Rome in 1908 when a catastrophic eruption two years before led the Italians to instead divert their funds to the recovery of the Naples area It is fascinating how a volcano transcends, but at the same time takes part in, world history.
We reached the crater rim in less than an hour, and took time to explore the area. Just like Taal or Apo, you can still see sulfuric steam effusing from the rocks in the periphery of the rim. Side by side with these volcanic features, you also have a souvenir shop in the rim, selling wine, food, and some souvenirs supposedly made from the sand of Vesuvius. As for me, my only souvenirs are the pictures on this blog.
We had a short picnic in one of the benches at the rim but then it started getting cold (which happens when you stop moving) - so we started the quick descent, and soon found ourselves back in Ercolano Scavi. I decided that there was still time to visit Pompeii and so I went to the archaeological site - a perfect complement with the hike. Then I headed back to Napoli and went to the airport to catch an evening flight back to Amsterdam.


CAPRI AND MT. VESUVIUS (AUTUMN 2013)
Hiking matters #373: Capri Day 1 - Monte Solaro
Hiking matters #374: Capri Day 2 - Via Krupp
Hiking matters #375: Hiking up Mount Vesuvius 

Initiatives by mountaineers and our friends to help victims of Typhoon Yolanda

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I am, like every Filipino at the moment, heartbroken over the devastation wrought by Typhoon Yolanda. Amid the pain and the difficulty of making sense, dealing with, and overcoming, we always have to think of something we can do to help out - in our little way - and I would like the share the initiatives of hiking clubs and groups of mountaineers which you may want to support. This is an incomplete list - please help me by sharing information about other initiatives. You can email me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com.  

MFPI: Mountaineers For Relief
See the details in the poster above. Thank you Scarlet Villamor for forwarding this to us.

Mu Relief+: Typhoon Yolanda
The Mu Sigma Phi Relief Operations, the Fraternity’s and Sorority’s disaster quick-response arm, is now again accepting donations for victims of Typhoon Yolanda.

Most important donations: 
Dry clothes
Drinking water
Undergarments
Sanitary napkin
Blankets

Other recommended donations:
Canned Goods
Rice
Instant Noodles
Sleeping Mats
Toiletries

We will be accepting donations, in cash and kind, at the Mu Sigma Phi Hut, at the UP College of Medicine.

For any inquiries or concerns, you may coordinate with Eman (0925-884-3050) or Billy (0927-571-1017/0922-535-6100). 

Monetary donations may be deposited at the following account:
Account name: Mu Sigma Phi Relief Operations
Account number: 504259500015
Bank: Philippine National Bank (PNB) – PGH Branch

Donations from overseas may also be coursed through the following:
Swift Code: PNBMPHMM
Routing # 01008-0081

Bangon Bayani
The Sigma Kappa Pi and the Sigma Delta Pi are also organizing relief operations (see poster for details). They are soliciting relief goods that you can give in drop-off points at Padre Faura and Makati. 

University of San Carlos Mountaineers 
The University of San Carlos Mountaineers and Nature Unlimited Outdoor Club (NULOC) based in Cebu have joined forces for the Assessment and Relief of our fellowmen and mountaineers in the Leyte area who are affected by typhoon Yolanda. Details:

"The Group decided to conduct assessment on the area and check members of the club and asssist rescue effort if needed. They will feed back so as to whom to coordinate with.. most likely to Jason Garrido.

"The next step is relief of which we will be collecting goods and funds from friends and kind individuals. Relief goods maybe given to any USCM member ( SAO may provide us some space C/O Andie Dela Cruz Sabaricos and JesseBoy Aguilar Wee) We hope to deliver the goods as early as possible.

"For Cash donations pls deposit it to Marie Maxine A. Mateo BPI account # 1359363574. Pls Message her if you intent to send Marie Maxine Acuna Mateo. For ML Kwarta padala, Palawan express, Western Union pls address it to Anie Dela Cruz Sabaricos. same way pls msg him. We really incourage Cash donations so as to make the goods in uniform and personalize their needs and also for mobilization of the team. Gina Caneja will help listing in the status of our members.. so if you are from leyte pls msg her or call her 09275428294

For Coordination pls msg: Leoj Onirac ( Joel Carino sun 09239149078, smart 09983634859, Glenn Ramirez Panic Anthony 09231784027

Burublig para ha Tanauan 
From @Sxon Morante: "Here's one of the organization initiating a reilef operation to our place Tanauan Leyte. We have a slot on C130 going to Tacloban then will be transported asap to Tanauan. Here's our page, Burublig para ha Tanauan you may contact the organizers thru the page the list and other details you need are there to extend your help. Thanks in advance."

HK-based Filipino Mountaineers hike for Tacloban
From Joel Buha: "We just recently finish our Charity Hike For CEBU & BOHOL and now we are on our way to to another Charity Hike for TACLOBAN. I'm planning to send monitary help so that they can buy whatever is needed and my direct contact in Tacloban will arrange everything.

FILMS CHARITY HIKE FOR TACLOBAN
Hong Kong Trail Section 8: Dragon's Back
December 01, 2013
09:00am-01:00pm

Futher details are posted on FILIPINO MOUNTAINEERS SOCIETY facebook page: www.facebook.com/FilipinoMountaineersSociety

FEU Outdoors: Task Force Yolanda
Our organization is knocking to your kind hearts to help our brothers and sisters in tacloban.

In kind: we prepared the ff.

1 galon of water
Canned goods
Crackers
Candles and matches
Clothes
Medicines (fever, colds, anti tetanus, open wounds)

We also encourage cash donations for more effective buying of goods (whole sale) you can deposit in this account.
601853 906 2678275
(BDO CASH CARD)
DANILO A. MAGSINO

*You can drop your in kinds and cash donations @juanas budbod and coffe legarda.

Thank you and god bless our country.

For information kindly contact the ff persons:

09261043189 (dan magsino) ~ feu outdoors president
09174600662 (Caren somodio) ~ feu outdoors vice president
09278682308 (kiara ragos) ~.juanas budbod and coffee


Hiking matters #376: A loop hike up La Dôle (1677m) in the Jura Mountains, Switzerland

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NEW YORK CITY - Last weekend, I went to Switzerland to meet with Iron Lady Jo Steven and Everest climber Leo Oracion; needless to say we did some hiking! It's been over two years since I last hiked with the Iron Lady, and my last hike with Leo was a Makiling Traverse in February 2012. I look up to these two great mountaineers so I was really delighted to have a chance to visit them.
I took an early morning flight from Amsterdam and arrived in Geneva by 0950H. Leo waited for me at the airport and we drove to Nyon to pick up the Iron Lady at the train station. Then, we proceeded to Saint Cergue to do a loop hike of La Dole (1677m), the second highest mountain in the Swiss part of the Jura mountain range, which runs from France to Germany through Switzerland.
Goethe was to have described the place in these terms: "There are no words to describe the grandeur and the beauty of this spectacle." I have to agree with him. The small villages, pine forests, and the backdrop of rolling hills were truly stunning and difficult to put into words.

The trails passed through a combination of pine woodlands and open, grassy, sometimes rocky slopes. Had the weather been better we would have seen views of Mont Blanc and the majestic Swiss Alps - Bernese and Chablis - but even the immediate views - extending to Lake Geneva - were awesome.
When we arrived at the summit, there was a sliver of snow that enveloped the peak area, which we found very nice. It is only November, but winter comes early to Switzerland, the land of white mountains. We briefly paused to enjoy the nice views at the peak - which included a white radar dome that Leo called a 'golf ball'.
We traversed through La Dole and descended using a southwestern trail, having lunch just 10 minutes away from the French border. While seated in some boulders, we saw a couple of chamois, the goat-antelope found in the European mountains. It's always nice to see animals in the wild. Jo and I reminisced about our Mt. Sicapoo hike when we saw wild deer - which is sadly become a rare occasion in the Philippines.
The descent was very easy and the weather cooperated all throughout, defying the dire forecasts. Before reconnnecting to the original trail we took going up, we passed through a nice stone wall that reminded me of the rich history of the place.
After the hike, Leo took us to Valais, where we planned to stage off our next hike. Thank you so much Leo for the hospitality, and to Iron Lady for joining us for the weekend!


HIKING IN THE JURA MOUNTAINS AND MONT SALEVE
Hiking matters #376: La Dole, Jura Mountains, Switzerland
Hiking matters #377: Mount Saleve, Rhone-Alpes, France
Hiking matters #378: Le Reculet, Jura Mountains, France 

AirAsia Zest now in Manila and Cebu with exciting destinations!

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I still remember my first AirAsia flight – from Kuala Lumpur to Surabaya at the start of a 10-day “ASEAN
Adventure” in May 2010 that took us to five countries and several mountains. We flew AirAsia again from Yogyakarta to KL,then KL to Siem Reap: aboard those planes I felt that I am on a new age of with more affordable flights, and more destinations that can open the horizons of many through the education that comes through traveling.

AirAsia has since grown and expanded, and now ZestAir has become rebranded as AirAsia Zest under the Air Asia group – as the airline disclosed to a group of bloggers In an event held at Clawdaddy’s (@clawdaddyph) at Bonifacio High Street last November 7. With this news from AirAsia, traveling within and beyond the Philippines just got more exciting!

Previously headquartered in Clark, Air Asia Philippines is now in Manila, offering the following domestic destinations: Cebu, Davao, Kalibo, Tagbilaran, Cagayan de Oro, and Puerto Princesa. Moreover, they are also offering flights to Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu, Incheon, Shanghai, and Macau. Interestingly Air Asia Zest is also offering a Manila to Miri flight, which should be very interesting. There are lots of mountains and outdoor activities in Sarawak!

Moreover AirAsia is also now in Cebu, with flights to Manila, Davao, Cagayan de Oro, Puerto Princesa, and Kuala Lumpur.

Watch out for exciting promos from AirAsia! You can book your flights at airasia.com. You can also like the AirAsia Philippines Facebook page (click this link) and follow them on Twitter (@AirAsiaPH) for updates.

Note: This is a sponsored post. 

Calling for a "National Mountain Clean-up Day" on May 10, 2014

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Inspired by the International Coastal Cleanup Day and motivated in part by the need to step up our efforts in the face of increasingly severe disasters that we face as a nation, I would like to suggest that we all join hands in holding a National Mountain Clean-up Day in May 10, 2014, after the peak season and before the rains - in what I envision to be an annual activity that allows not just to clean up all the mountains but also to have a strong voice in raising awareness about the importance of protecting our mountains and forests.

Like the anti-pork rally, no organizer is required for this event and we do not need any kind of registration or fees; all we need to do is to coordinate which groups are climbing which mountains so we will not cluster together in one mountain (I can do this by posting the groups in PM). Sharing of ideas, plans, schedules, and group invites can also be facilitated through social media by using the hashtag #mtncleanup2014. I think for this event to succeed, it is important that the idea itself to be the rallying point rather than a group of organizers. Thus while I will be active in coordinating this event, I am not the organizer. Neither this is my original idea - I'm sure many others have thought about this before. I want everyone to be the organizers so we can all claim ownership of this activity.

There are certain guidelines that we have to be aware of, however, in the conduct of the clean-up climbs.

1. As many mountains as possible, as few mountaineers in a mountain as possible - The goal is for us to be able to clean many mountains to avoid redundancy in the clean-up but at the same time to avoid overcrowding. Of course, more groups will be required to clean up more popular mountains like Mt. Apo. But we should still strive to maintain a group size of around 15 persons per group. To avoid multiple groups going into the same trail or mountain, I will be posting the list of groups who have final plans in this post. Again, we can use the hashtag #mtncleanup2014 to coordinate efforts.

2. Proper waste disposal. It is not enough to bring back the waste to the jumpoff, because it may just as easily end up being disposed in the same irresponsible way. It is important to see to it that the waste is properly disposed. Thus it is advisable to coordinate with local government units, the local DENR, on where the drop-off points for all the trash can be. I will also make a separate post about "Guidelines on organizing a clean-up climb" which will also include things to bring, how to protect

3. Coordination with local and national government is recommended. This is related to #2. As we all know, being a mountaineer means being able to deal with different people: the locals, the guide, our fellow mountaineers. Coordinating with LGUs, whenever possible, will allow them to participate in an environmental activity and avoid the potentially embarrassing situation of being perceived to be unable to clean one's own backyard. I will also try to coordinate with the national DENR and see if they can help us. Your ideas are very welcome and if you have contacts with government agencies, you are more than welcome to share them with us (I hope Secretary Ramon Paje can somehow hear this!).

4. Let's make this visible. For this activity to have a big impact, we need to "make noise" so we can bring to the national consciousness the importance of clean mountains as well as mountain-related issues. So if you have journalist friends, friends in the media, and other people who have a wide reach - you should invite them to take part, and if you are a journalist yourself please help us highlight this initiative so people can hear about it and hopefully be inspired. Of course all of us have social media presence and we can use this to influence others as well.

What is more powerful, cursing someone for littering in the mountain, or picking up his trash in front of him and putting it in your bag? Actions speak louder than words. By holding a National Mountain Clean-up Day as a collective action, we can influence through social media more powerfully than any discussion thread or status message can ever achieve. By doing this as an annual event, we have the opportunity to show the nation that our mountains need to be cleaned and conserved, and this is also a chance to inspire others to be responsible mountaineers. Let's do this! #mtncleanup2014

LIST OF CLEAN-UP CLIMBS SCHEDULED ON MAY 10, 2014
DESTINATION
ORGANIZING CLUB OR GROUP
CONTACT PERSON
CONTACT #
Gulugod-Baboy
Rotaract Club of Malabon East
Reginald Panida
09164505739
Pico de Loro
Team Subi Monte
Jayson Gregorio
09258887663
Malabondokers and Friends
Nicolaou Romero
09165907892
Mt. Ugo
ICONS (In Conquest of Nature's Secret)
Jeff Mansibang
09275219225
Mt. Sembrano
Rotaract Clubs of Camanava
Gabe Santos
09261177946
Mt. Romelo
Kanlungan Pilipinas Movement
Herald Villarca
09328787857
Manabu Peak
Don Bosco Mountaineering Society
Emerson
09277983435
Mt. Tagapo
Dell Outdoor Club
Brylle Estigoy
09063470669
Mt. Batulao
Batangas Mountaineering Society
Gary Salvador Garay
09278681973
Mt. Daguldol
Hightop Adventure
Mark Villamor
09277334359

ADD YOUR GROUP TO THE LIST
You can make a comment with the following information in this post, you can email me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com

Group name:
Group leader:
Clean-up destination:
Contact number:
Number of slots (max. 18):
Additional information / remarks:

FREQUENTLY-ASKED QUESTIONS

1. I do not have a group. How can I join the clean-up climbs?
The contact numbers of the organizers are listed in the table above. You can contact them to signify your interest. Also, as May 10, 2014 approaches, if we identify a mountain that has no group yet, we can ask people to volunteer as organizer for such open clean-up climbs that are not organized.

2. Our group is interested to join but we do not know how to organize a clean-up climb. How do we go about it?
Organizing a clean-up climb is not rocket science. Basically a clean-up climb is just the act of climbing a mountain to collect trash in the trails, campsites, and points of interest and bringing it down to a place where proper waste disposal is practiced. One can also interpret a 'clean-up climb' to include the act of cleaning up vandalisms from rocks, among others. I will post a set of guidelines on how to conduct a clean-up climb soon.

3. What if there are several groups doing a clean-up climb in one mountain?
The reason why I am posting the groups who have already announced their intentions is so that we can avoid such a situation. Groups who have decided on the same destination can discuss among themselves how to work it out. For examples, many mountains have different trails and groups can focus their clean-up efforts in a particular trail. Two or three groups doing a clean-up for one mountain is not a bad especially if these mountains are high-impact to begin with, and have many trash to be collected. The important thing is that groups cooperate with each other and with the local government.

4. How much will participating in the clean-up climbs cost?
There will be no registration or other fees, except for the costs that the organizing groups will set for their own climbs. PinoyMountaineer itself is not the organizer of one big events, but the coordinator of several small events happening at the same time. Organizers of the climbs are free to get sponsorship for their own events, without the need to get consent from PinoyMountaineer or anyone.

5. Will there be IDs and event/souvenir shirts?
I know that shirts and IDs are important for hiking events. However, to avoid any financial and logistical issues, any shirt that will be produced as an event shirt will be open source design which groups and individuals can just download and print for themselves and add their logos on it. We will also have an open source logo for the event that people can add to their own shirts and IDs. I can upload it as a high-resolution image file by February or March 2014.

6. I cannot join the clean-up climbs but I still want to support this initiative. How can I help?
We need to reach as many people as we can with our message of the importance of clean mountains. If you think you have the opportunity, ability, or resources to contribute towards this goal, please get in touch with me at gideon@pinoymountaineer.com. 

Gear Review: Merrell Proterra Sport Hiking shoe (Preliminary)

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AMSTERDAM - I tried the Merrell Proterra Sport hiking shoe in Mt. Batulao in September, hoping to make it my replacement for my beloved La Sportiva Wildcat GTX, which has worn out after so many hikes. Trail running has become a big deal globally, and with it, a plethora of footwear. I am not a trail runner but I am keen on trying shoes that are designed for quick tramps and short, easy dayhikes. Ultimately, I decided that I liked the shoe, and I brought it along in Europe where I used it to do some hikes in Italy, including Mt. Vesuvius and the trails of Capri.

The Merrell Proterra Sport offers itself as a 'minimalist hiking shoe' and what I immediately noticed was that it was very light, and very comfortable -- to a point that you would feel that it is a bit big for the size. It doesn't require any break-in, and you can really use straight off the box.

In terms of sturdiness in rocky surfaces, it performs well enough but I am not sure how it will stand up to a lengthy trail full of rocks such as that of Mt. Tapulao. I have a feeling that the fact that it is not Vibram will start to be felt if you're planning to use it for major climbs. But if you are just going for a regular hike, I think this is an excellent choice. As for traction, I didn't have problems with the Proterra.

Lightweight shoes do away with waterproofing to make the shoes lighter, and for low-cut shoes, you're gonna get wet anyway after a while since the water will seep in. For the Philippines, a non-waterproof shoe is okay since it allows you to cross rivers without worrying that you're shoes will get wet - provided that the shoe dries quickly. The only drawback for the Proterra is that the mesh easily gets wet and it feels wet when it's wet and slushy - unlike the Waterpro series of Merrell,the materials of which do not absorb water.

 But overall it is a nice shoe and I will use it again for the dayhikes that I'm beginning to miss. I think the move towards minimalist footwear is a welcome development and I look forward to more Proterras in the future.

Hiking matters #380: Cape Sounion in Greece - Mythology, beauty, and the Aegean Sea

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Cape Sounion at the tip of Attica, Greece, with the Temple of Poseidon
at the background
Last weekend, I went to Athens  and made two very fantastic daytrips from the Greek capital: The first was to Cape Sounion (Aκρωτήριο Σούνιο) - the site of Poseidon's Temple. The second much longer trip was to Delphi, site of the renowned Oracle, and one of the most important places of the ancient world. Both these two involved some hiking possibilities, and even though I wasn't able to make the most out of them, given the lack of time and bad weather, I had enough to make my feet happy and my mind brimming with beautiful memories.
Cape Sounion is about 70 kilometers away south of Athens, at the tip of the Attica peninsula. Its pedigree transcends myth and history: it was mentioned in Homer's Odyssey, and it was the place where King Aegeus waited for his son, the hero Theseus. With rolling hills and dramatic cliffs reminiscent of the Batanes islands, it was a great choice for erecting the Temple of Poseidon - which still stands after more than two millennia. For my visit to Sounion I was joined by Mai Taqueban of the Loyola Mountaineers; we met three kababayan in Athens and we all decided to take a cab together (Shoutout to them!). 
Upon arriving at Sounion, instead of going directly to the Tempe of Poseidon, Mai and I first explored the Eastern Hill, which has some trails that take take you to the dramatic cliffs. Amazingly, the you could see the island of Crete from a distance. King Aegeus would definitely have seen Theseus coming, since he slew the Minotaur in Crete. Of course, we all know the story that Theseus, instead of putting white sails that signify victory, let the black sails remain unfurled, causing the King to think that his son had died. In his despair, he fell off the cliffs, drowning in the sea that now bears his name.
We walked around the hill and marveled the beauty of the place, and how steeped it was in legend. It is actually a very hike an easy trek and given sufficient time one can explore more of the peninsula. But confronted with the splendid views of the Aegean, and Crete, and the coast - I decided that I was better off gazing at the sea, imagining the approach of the ship with black sails...
Finally we trekked back to the Temple of Poseidon. It was not as grand as the Parthenon, but the sea that surrounds it invested it with a pathos that was made more poignant with the clouds and light rain that reminded us that it was time to go back to Athens. So beautiful was the experience that I felt I could say, with Lord Byron, the verse he penned upon his visit to the very place:

Place me on Sunium's marbled steep,
Where nothing, save the waves and I,
May hear our mutual murmurs sweep..

Hiking maters #381: Delphi, Greece - the site of ancient Oracle on the slopes of Mt. Parnassos

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AMSTERDAM - A day after the relaxing walk in Cape Sounion (see Hiking matters #380), Mai and I went to Delphi, the site of the ancient Oracle and one of the most important places in Ancient Greece. Kings and emperors alike sought the counsel of the Oracle, a priestess who was believed to receive tidings from Apollo himself. From the Trojan War to Alexander's conquests, Delphi loomed large as in indispensible part of the narrative.
For me, the added bonus was that Delphi was perched in the slopes of Mt. Parnassus, one of the loftier mountains of Greece (for Parisians, this is where Montparnasse comes from). Delphi can be the beginning or the end of a hiking trip - in the same way that Batad Rice Terraces can be the beginning or end of a Mt. Amuyao Traverse. I actually considered doing a longer hike of Parnassus but ultimately - given the bad weather that weekend - I had to content myself with a walk within Delphi, with the ruins as the highlight. It was still a very memorable trip and I would like to go back to hike in the area someday.

The highlight was the archaeological site where ancient Delphi stood. A winding stone trail takes you up the various buildings that once stood on the slopes - from small shrines to the once-magnificent Temple of Apollo, as well as the Theater (see picture below). All of these ancient monuments have their own interesting tales - involving gods, earthquakes, Roman invaders, and a 2500-year old Sphinx that is still intact, kept in the Delphi Museum.

By the time we finished visiting the ruins and exploring the town, we had walked for over four hours in inclined footpaths. I'm sure without our background with mountains we wouldn't have gone that far. Which makes me reflect that being a hiker is more than being able to climb mountains. It is also having an open mind to explore new places and try new things. Having said thus, I'm glad I decided to go to Delphi. There is no Oracle that can tell me if I would be able to come back, but I certainly hope I can. Meanwhile, I will take the injunction in the Temple: "Know Thyself", to heart.
The Temple of Athena in Delphi

GLIMPSES OF GREECE: ATHENS AND DELPHI
Hiking matters #381: Delphi at the slopes of Mt. Parnassos 

Hiking matters #377: Hiking up Mont Salève, the "balcony of Geneva" in Rhône-Alpes, France

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By the cliffs of Grand-Gorges in Mont Saleve
CHICAGO, IL - From Leo Oracion's house in Valais, Iron Lady Jo Steven and I took the train to Geneva. We had hoped to hike up Mont Noble in Valais, but the snow was too heavy and the weather too bad, so we decided that Geneva would be a better place to stage a more substantial Monday hike. Amazingly, however, the weather improved by the time we arrived, and so we decided to go for Mont Saleve, taking Bus no. 8 just a hundred meters away from the main station.
View of Lake Geneva from Mont Saleve, with Jet d'Eau on the left
Mont Saleve is counted as one of the top attractions of city, and is even called 'The Balcony of Geneva', but it is actually technically in France, so from the Veyrier Douane bus stop, we crossed the border to France. Fortunately the Schengen agreement has made things really very convenient -- Switzerland joined the borderless zone only very recently. Considering that we only had less than half a day to do the hike and the weather was gloomy, our plan was to take the telepherique from Pas de l'Echelle up, hike through the ridge, and descend via the Grand-Gorge trail.

We started the hike amid alternating drizzles and light snow. Some parts of the trail were muddy, and the winds coming from Lake Geneva were quite chilly especially when we walked in the ridge. As we sought to reach the forested gorge as soon as possible, Jo and I reminisced about some of the wet hikes we've experienced before, most memorably our hike of Halla-san, the highest mountain in South Korea. There was heavy rain from the beginning to the end of the hike and really didn't see anything even if we traversed the mountain (see Hiking matters #103).

Personally I don't really mind wet hikes as long as, firstly, I know I could get dry before I sleep - either back in town, or inside my tent, and secondly, that none of my valuables would get wet. Sometimes, the clouds and fog also create a unique atmosphere for the mountain. In the case of Mont Saleve, as we entered the Grand Gorge, the mist and the barren trees lent some noir to the trails, and I was reminded that this is actually the very place where Frankenstein sought refuge, according to Mary Shelley's novel.

Meanwhile. the Gorge featured some reallly awesome descents through some dramatic rock faces, which the forest cover underplays -- but it is no less dangerous. In one of the rocks, we saw a small memorial tablet for a climber who we surmised must have died there.

But at least we were shielded from the wind and by the time we reached the end of the steep descents, the rains had stopped and it was just a matter to heading back to the bus stop. Soon we found ourselves back in Geneva, where we had some nice couscous dishes that we hoped would foreshadow a North African adventure in the future!

HIKING IN THE JURA MOUNTAINS AND MONT SALEVE
Hiking matters #376: La Dole, Jura Mountains, Switzerland
Hiking matters #377: Mount Saleve, Rhone-Alpes, France
Hiking matters #378: Le Reculet, Jura Mountains, France 

Christmas Day post: Famous trees in Philippine mountains

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LOS BANOS, LAGUNA - Christmas trees remind me of some of the iconic trees that we encounter in some Philippine mountains. Trees are a comforting presence, not only because of their beauty, but also because of the fact that they are always there - a testament to the changelessness that we seek in the mountains. Trees, however, are fragile and in their silence, they speak to us of the need to protect the environment.

1. The tree in Mt. Batulao's Camp 7 (Old Trail) - This beautiful tree is a solitary presence in the penultimate stop before ascending the summit from the Old Trail. In the grassy slopes of Batulao, these trees stand out, representing the resilience of trees as people come and go. It can be very hot in Batulao, and hopefully this tree will continue to provide shade for generations to come.
2. The tree near Gulugod-Baboy's summit - Majestic, this tree stands tall near the third and highest peak of the small Gulugod Baboy Range in Anilao, Batangas.


3. The lone tree in Mt. Pulag's summit slopes - Hikers have given many names to this lone, coniferous tree a few hundred meters away from Mt. Pulag's summit.

4. The viewing tree at Tarak Peak, Mariveles Range - This is another lovely tree that faces Bataan Peak, and from which you can see stunning view of Manila Bay and the West Philippine Sea. Sometimes, this tree will shed all its leaves but during the summer months it is verdant as an evergreen, and is perched proudly near Tarak Peak - a rewarding sight for those ascending via Sky Biscocho's traverse trail.

5. The tree at the summit of Mt. Tapulao - Full of spiraling branches, this tree gives an arcane feel and is a perfect landmark to take pictures at the summit. Thank you Hezron Llanes for reminding me about this tree!

How many of these trees have you visited? Are there other trees that you think should be on this list? Let me know by commenting in this article! Again, Merry Christmas to everyone!

PS: I'll be very grateful if anyone can identify the species of these trees!

Hiking matters #382: A beautiful morning in Mt. Batulao

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It's great to be back home -- naturally, being reunited with loved ones is the main thing, then there is tasting good adobo and rice again -- and of course, there are the mountains that I've missed. One day after I arrived, on Saturday (December 21), I found myself hiking Mt. Batulao, this time with Sheena, who after climbing Maculot and Pico de Loro had looked forward to doing Batulao. Also joining us were teens Arlyn and Alvin.
 
For me, these three mountains are the best ones for those who wish to discover mountain climbing. Maculot is a short and easy hike with rewarding scenery at the top. Pico de Loro, adds variety, with changing environments  and ups and downs in the trail. Batulao gives the opportunity to tread a narrow, rolling trail for a relatively longer period of time, all the while with fantastic views of Batangas - because it has exposed trails I think it is the most dangerous of the three, even if in terms of difficulty I would say it's a toss-up with Pico.
We started trekking at 0630H and the views were magnificent. We saw a lofty Maculot, with a sliver of clouds covering its lower slopes, making it appear like like a blue dome pointing to the sky. Then there was also the Mariveles Range, Talamitam, Pico de Loro, and Mt. Banahaw. As Sheena said, the views looked like paintings from the great masters. Hiking with someone who is climbing the mountain for the first time helps you relive the beauty of the place.



The trails were green and beautiful, and the scenery was fantastic, vivid yet with the colors of early morning. We took a rather relaxed pace via the New Trail and spent most of the morning enjoying the trail, resting at the summit, and then descending via the Old Trail as the sun approached its zenith. Taking our time through the numbered camps and through the valley that separates the Old and the New, we finally reached the trailhead by 1200H and an hour later we were having lunch in Tagaytay. Thanks Sheena!


PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MT. BATULAO
HM #329: Yet again, Batulao (Mar 2013)
HM #366: Green Batulao (Sep 2013)
HM #382: A beautiful morning in Mt. Batulao (Dec 2013)

PinoyMountaineer Top 10 Hikes of 2013

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Continuing my tradition of choosing ten hikes that represents best the adventures I had in the past year, I offer this post today, New Year's Day, filled with excitement for the hikes to come but at the same time with thanksgiving for the successes of the past. I am especially happy with the ascent of Mt. Ragang, the first three hikes of the Grand Cordillera Trail particularly the Ugo-Pulag Traverse, and my second of the Seven Summits, Mt. Elbrus.

Note, these hikes are in chronological order.


1. Ugo-Pulag Traverse  (Benguet - N. Vizcaya - Benguet)
It took us four long days of intense trekking to complete this epic hike but it was greatly rewarding. The villages between Ugo and Pulag are beautiful, and so are the trails that connect them. This hike opens up the possibility of a 'Grand Cordillera Trail' that traverses the entire region, from Ugo to Sagada. The GCT is a project that I hope to continue in 2014.


2. Mt. Ragang (ARMM)
The only one among the 10 highest mountains of the Philippines that has never been previously documented, Mt. Ragang is shrouded in mystery and fear - and it has been the dream climb of many for decades. This year, I decided to give it a try and was rewarded with the most memorable hikes in my life. It turned out to be a difficult mountain in its own right, taking us four days to reach the summit and get back.


3. Akiki-Tawangan Traverse (Benguet)
Continuing the GCT and seeking an alternative to the overcrowded Ambangeg, we did a two-day traverse of Mt. Pulag from the steep and pine-forested Akiki Trail to the more gradual, mossy-forested Tawangan Trail. It was a very beautiful hike and so far my favorite combination of trails up Luzon's highest peak.


4. Cilai Ridge (Taiwan)
Cilai Ridge with its black, barren, intimidating appearance in Central Taiwan was my goal since I completed its more difficult relative, the Holy Ridge, in 2012. So for my 27th birthday I headed there with hiking buddies Coby and Martin. Fortunately we were rewarded with fantastic weather and a breathtaking ridgewalk 3500 meters above sea level.


5. Mt. Halcon (Oriental Mindoro)
Regarded as one of the most difficult mountains to climb in the Philippines, Mt. Halcon has always been one of my goals and when we heard about its reopening we lost no time in mustering an expedition. The approach of the rainy season notwithstanding, we managed to have a fantastic and intense hike. Truly there were lots of limatik but we also had lots of fun! Thank you Dominic and Zeus, as well as my companions Koi and Daryl!


6. Vall de Nuria, Pyrenees (Spain) - Eager to experience Europe's great hiking, I went from Barcelona to Vall de Nuria, a village nestled in a valley in the eastern part of the Pyrenees - or what the Spaniards call Los Pirineos. Within Vall the Nuria I managed to hike up two of the peaks - Puigmal and Pic d'Aliga, and I also walked a lovely section of the GR-10 on the way back.


7. Mt. Elbrus (Russia)
The highest mountain in Europe and one of the Seven Summits, Mt. Elbrus proved to be a tough challenge, especially with volatile weather conditions that forced us to abort the ascent on our scheduled summit day. Faced with limited time but offered a second chance, four of us did our very best and reached the summit.


8.  Vesuvius and Capri (Naples, Italy)
After visiting Rome I went south to Naples, covering much of the island of Capri on foot, and then proceeding to do a hike of one of the world's most famous volcanoes, Mt. Vesuvius. Followed by a sidetrip to Pompeii, this was both a natural and historical journey. Amalfi Coast, which I would have done with Iron Lady Jo Steven had she not been indisposed, will have to wait for a next time!


9. Jura Mountains, (Switzerland and France)
This is actually a trilogy of hikes around the Geneva that I did with my two good friends and mentors, Everest climber Leo Oracion and Iron Lady Jo Steven. Just being reunited with them was rewarding enough, but on top of that, I was rewarded with two hikes in the Jura Mountains - Le Dole and Le Reculet, plus a hike in Mont Saleve, the 'Balcony of Geneva'. Considering that it was already late in autumn and I had limited time, I think I was able to make the most out of the trip.


10. Tinoc and Mt. Napulauan (Benguet and Ifugao)
Attempting to continue to GCT, I went to Tawangan where we ended the previous hike, and continued on to Tinoc. Unfortunately, from Tinoc we had difficulty finding a suitable trail; the old ones had already been expanded to become cement or rough roads. So we instead chartered a vehicle to Hungduan, where we did a dayhike traverse of Mt. Napulauan, which turned out to be a mesmerizing finale for a year of adventure.

Special mention to my frequent companions in these hikes: Coby Sarreal (Ragang, Akiki-Tawangan, Cilai, Elbrus, Napulauan), Chris Tejirian (Ugo-Pulag, Akiki-Tawangan), Daryl Comagon and Koi Grey (Halcon, Tinoc-Napulauan) - as well as to the Mt. Elbrus Team (Carina, Doc Koko, Swami Del, Mutya, Niel, Ed, Doc Jun, Farah, Coby, Cynthia). And of course I greatly appreciate everyone who joined and made these hikes possible!


PINOYMOUNTAINEER TOP 10 HIKES OF THE YEAR
Top 10 Hikes of 2013
Top 10 Hikes of 2012
Top 10 Hikes of 2011 (PH)
Top 10 Hikes of 2011 (International)
Top 10 Hikes of 2010
Top 10 Hikes of 2009
Top 10 Hikes of 2008

Hiking matters #385: The Calauit Trail to Taal Volcano and Crater Lake

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For all its fame as one of the world's most notable and active volcanoes, Taal Volcano in Southern Luzon is not your usual hiking destination; it is seen, like Pinatubo, as more of a place for tourists. It didn't help that horses are at hand and the trail is littered with horse dung, as well as droves of people. Although the view at the top is nice, getting there isn't really attractive prospect for hikers especially if you have to pay way more for it than, say, nearby Mt. Batulao.
The Calauit Trail, however, which approaches the crater rim from the north, offers a much less popular, equally scenic route in the shadow of Mt. Maculot -- and it is actually a nice and easy hike. Furthermore, this trail takes the hiker not just to the crater rim, but down the crater lake - unique for being a 'lake within an island (Volcano island) within a lake (Taal Lake) within and island (Luzon)'.
On Saturday, January 12, I had the opportunity to do this hike with my friends Pam Aquino and Josh Lim. From Tagaytay we went down to Talisay, Batangas and proceed to Taal Lake Yacht Club, which has packages for visits to Taal. For the Calauit trail, the boat rental costs P3,800 (compared to P2,800 for the regular trail) and this is good for 5-6 persons; there are additional fees so in all it cost us P1,400 each. Our boatman-cum-guide was Jayson.
The boat ride itself can be quite tricky. Taal Lake, being the third largest lake in the Philippines, is big enough to have some strong waves and you can get wet before you reach the island. The ride takes around 40 minutes.
Upon arrival at Volcano island, one passes by a small village before entering the gentle, open, and dusty-when-dry trail that is quite scenic, with Mt. Maculot to the east a towering presence, and the view of Taal Lake surrounding the island. As expected from a volcano island there aren't much trees - though the forest that is forming around the rim is a pleasant surprise.
Within thirty minutes or so, one reaches the rim where one can have a nice view of the crater lake. It is beautiful, and just like other volcanic lakes, the colour of the water changes depending on the season, the rainfall, and the time of the day. The tiny islet in the off-center of the lake adds a distinctive feel to it. From the rim, it takes just 15 minutes to reach the crater lake, where one can even swim -- the water is just a bit hot and is mildly sulphuric. 
Because we started late, it was already noontime when we reached the lake and we didn't stay too long. Heading back was as easy as getting in: it took less than an hour for us to return to the boat. What proved much challenging, however, was the return boat ride: at one point the engine stopped, amid formidable waves, and we were soaking wet by the time we reached Talisay. But overall I think it's a worthy trip and I can even suggest it as a good introductory hike. Thanks Jayson and the friendly staff in Taal Lake Yacht Club! 

Hiking matters #386: Mariveles Range (Pantingan Peak to Tarak Ridge) Traverse Part 1 - Pantingan Peak

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I am not sure if it can still be called a dayhike, but it was certainly a very long day: Yesterday, my friends and I traversed the Mariveles Range - an inactive volcano - through its crater - from Bagac, Bataan up Pantingan Peak to Brgy. Alas-asin, Mariveles, Bataan coming from El Saco Peak and Tarak Ridge. Joining me were Coby Sarreal, Jeshua Sales, Daryl Comagon, and Koi Grey; we were guided by Kuya Rey, who guided me in Pantingan in 2011 (09282609645).
Highlights of the hike include trekking through the ridges and peaks that comprise the crater rim, descending to the caldera itself with Bakwat River as key feature, and reemerging up the rim through El Saco Peak and Tarak Peak before finally descending via the familiar Tarak Ridge and Papaya River. Totalling 23 kilometres and taking us 20 hours, this hike is visually stunning as it is physically challenging: a hike where beauty and adventure truly coincide.
Mountains are like people: You need to get closer to appreciate their true beauty. This saying is apt for the Mariveles range, which keep getting interesting, the more I explore it. My first hike was in 2007 - an overnight Tarok Ridge - this was before I even started PinoyMountaineer. Back then, it was still possible to spend a summer weekend in the ridge all to yourselves. And then in April 2011 I did the Pantingan dayhike - a novelty then (see Hiking matters #164); on the same year Sky Biscocho led a team that included me and Iron Lady Jo Steven to Tarak Traverse (Hiking matters #187) and Skysam peak dayhike. 
These hikes were wonderful, but I would say that the Pantingan to Tarak traverse is, in terms of difficulty and grandeur, on a different register. Now I understand, all the more, why Sky Biscocho says that the Mariveles Range is his favourite hiking destination. The Pantingan-Tarak Traverse has always intrigued me since Jose Barcena and others began posting about stand I'm very glad I finally had the opportunity to do it. 
 
From the Sitio Gabon trailhead of Pantingan Peak, we started trekking at 0400H. From this point one quickly enters a forest with a brief river interlude, then emerging out of the forest into the grasslands known as 'Marlboro Country'. Two hours later we were at Danny's Gate. By night trekking this segment before entering the forest, we managed to avoid what could have been a very taxing leg of the hike when one is fully exposed to the sun - a strategy I also successfully applied in Balingkilat and Cinco Picos.

Since I first did the Pantingan dayhike in 2011, the trail has become much more established. Just like before, I hardly saw limatik. I think in Pantingan, as in many mountains, the presence of limatik is largely dependent on weather; in our case we had exceptionally good weather throughout the hike. 
After 4 hours and 30 minutes of trekking we had reached the summit of Pantingan Peak - which I originally recorded at 1388 MASL but now seems to be actually higher, based on two GPS measurements: I am pegging it at 1408 MASL. 
We rested for a good half hour or so at Pantingan Peak, before continuing on. In a ridgewalk reminiscent of the descent from Talomo to Basinan campsite, several peaks ensued, including Dagat-dagatan Peak which turns out to be actually a tad higher, at 1418 MASL. We realised that it may actually be the highest peak in the range, that is, the true summit of Mariveles, unless the formidable-looking Bataan peak contests the title.
Past Dagat-dagatan, we passed through a couple more peaks, the last one being 'Mag-asawang Bato', so named after two rocks that sit together on its slopes. We passed through a beautiful viewpoint which offered a view of the crater and the peaks around, some of which are nameless, all of which are surely exciting to explore. We also saw what lay ahead of us: a steep ascent from the crater to El Saco Peak, then a rolling trek to Tarak Ridge. But first, we had to negotiate what would turn out to be a bewildering, almost 500-meter descent to the crater. To be continued in Hiking matters #387

PANTINGAN TO TARAK TRAVERSE DAYHIKE

Hiking matters #387: Mariveles Range (Pantingan Peak to Tarak Ridge) Traverse Part 2 - To Tarak Ridge

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The imposing peaks of Mariveles as viewed from the other side of the rim
Continued from Hiking matters #386: We started descending from the crater rim at around 1100H, hoping to have lunch by Bakwat River, on the upper reaches of the crater, which is vast and should actually be called a caldera. Between the rim and the river, however, the forest-covered ravines have to be negotiated - involving an altitude loss of almost 500 meters. It was a great exercise in footwork, balance, and the pick-a-branch game where the loser ends up holding a thorny branch - not a very nice penalty.
Of course, the stakes are much higher in the Mariveles Range. Just last year nine mountaineers got lost, mistaking, from Tarak Peak, the traverse trail to Pantingan for the traverse to Paniquian River. Once you are deep into the range, especially when you are inside the crater, you are at the mercy of the elements. This is what makes the range quite exciting: even though it's less than three hours away from Manila, it gives the sense of wilderness that is not found in other nearby mountains. The descent from the rim to Bakwat River compares favorably with the descent to Basinan campsite on a Talomo-Apo Traverse (see Hiking matters #204).
It was already past 1300H when we arrived in Bakwat river, where we had late lunch. By this time our pace has considerably slowed. We resumed the trek an hour later. The ascent as just as steep as the descent, and at one point Kuya Rey even installed some ropes to assist us in going up. But for all its steepness, the trail is never too overgrown, and there weren't any - making the trek actually pleasant.

Some people speak of 'three rules of mountaineering' which goes like this: "It's always taller than it looks, it's always further than it looks, it's always harder than it looks". These rules came to mind when we were ascending from the crater. Instead of a direct assault to reach the peak, there were lots of ups and downs before the final ascent.

It was already past 1600H when we reached the ridge areas, and at this point, as we emerged from the forests, the view became fantastic: to our left we could look down on the vast crater, and to the right, the view of Mariveles and West Philippine sea. Bataan Peak - from a distant sight ahead - became a towering figure behind us.
At around 1700H we reached El Saco Peak, at over 1300 MASL the foremost peak of this side of Mariveles. We took our final group photo here (see last photo below). From El Saco Peak, it would still be another hour to reach Tarak, and it was already getting dark by the time we reached Tarak Peak.
By the time we reached Tarak Ridge, the scenery was aglow with the city lights of Bataan and Metro Manila. The breeze was cool, but not fierce; there were many stars and the gibbous moon cast a faint glow on the mountain: It was a beautiful evening - one in which I wouldn't mind trekking.
Past Tarak Ridge, we entered the forest which is also quite steep - but is much more established than the rest of Mariveles - lots of branches to hold on to - and is thus almost like a cool down exercise. At one point I took a nap, my head nestled between two large roots - while I waited for my companions. I was well stocked with food, aware of the magnitude of the hike, and I had some snacks at Papaya River - always a nice place to be when in Tarak Ridge.

The trail from Papaya River back to the trailhead felt long - with endless swaths of woodland. But I was reassured when I finally came upon the wide, rough road which signalled the end of the trail. By midnight, we had reached Nanay Cording's place. By the time I had fallen asleep in one of the bamboo benches there, we had been trekking for 20 hours - not my personal record for the longest trekking day (I spent 25 hours in Kilimanjaro and 24 hours in Mt. Ragang), but certainly one of the most exciting ones.

I will make an itinerary for this hike, which is poised to be what MakTrav was in 2008: A worthy challenge that pushes the boundaries of a single day. Thank you to Kuya Rey for guiding us and I highly recommend his services. I also thank my hiking companions for the enjoyable hike. We also remember Sky Biscocho whose devotion to the Mariveles Range has made possible the continued appreciation of mountaineers of the beauty and adventure it so excitingly offers.

PANTINGAN TO TARAK TRAVERSE DAYHIKE

Hiking matters #388: Mt. Guiting-Guiting Traverse Dayhike Part I: From Olango to G2 summit

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M/V MARIA QUERUBIN - The hike should have started one day earlier, but Tropical Depression Basyang forced us to take a day off at the jumpoff in Olango, San Fernando, Sibuyan. So I spent that day reading books, playing with the local kids, and sleeping in a hammock in a nice hut that Tatay Remy built with mountaineers in mind.

We had come to Sibuyan island to do a traverse dayhike of Mt. Guiting-Guiting. Way back in 2008, I climbed Guiting-Guiting via the traditional route, taking three days (see Hiking matters #2). A year later and in the years thereafter, mountaineers and local guides have established a traverse from the southwest, coming from the town of San Fernando, sparking renewed interest on the mountain. But it is not just the new traverse that made me return; I also wanted to relive the experience of hiking in G2 - one of the most exciting hikes in the country.
Sadly, Martin had to return to Manila, having allotted just one day to attempt the traverse. So the challenge was left to Dan and I, joined by guides Joner and Tatay Remy who would be hiking G2 for the first time since his injury eight months ago. Traversing G2 in one day is not a novelty: it has been done by Koi Grey and Melo Sanchez in 2010 and many others have followed suit. Long dayhikes suit my training needs as they simulate the final ascent of high-altitude peaks, many of which require waking up and starting the hike at midnight - or even earlier (for example, Stok Kangri in India - see Hiking matters #300).
For this particular hike we set the departure time at 0200H and we started on time, reaching the Olango river by 0230H, Camp 1 by 0400H, Camp 2 by 0530H, and Camp 3 by 0640H - this is where we had our breakfast. The trail was immediately steep, and understandably so: starting virtually from sea level, we had to gain over 2000 meters in several hours. It was a nice mix of rock slopes interspersed with rhododendrons, and pockets of forest.

Past Camp 3, we continued the hike up the rocky slopes, and reached the crash site soon after - a nice viewing deck for the sea, the southwest part of the island, and the morning sun. The slopes were also visible - the scene was reminiscent of the approach to Mantalingajan's summit.
We continued on, taking the trails that are also comparable, albeit much steeper, with those of Apo from Lake Venado. We passed through Mt. Sibuyan - a more eastern peak of Mt. Guiting-Guiting (which should actually be thought of a range, like Mariveles). With the clouds beginning to obscure everything, we didn't have the appetite for more sightseeing and instead focused our attention to continuing the cadence of the peak.
By 0915H, Tatay Remy announced that we had reached the 'Peak of Deception' - not to be confused with the original PoD on the traditional trail (for which I think it is a more apt monicker). Less than fifteen minutes later, at 0928H, we reached the summit of Mt. Guiting-Guiting, 2058 meters above sea level. Continued in Hiking matters #389.

GUITING-GUITING TRAVERSE DAYHIKE
Hiking matters #388: Olango to G2 summit
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