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Hiking matters #320: Ugo-Pulag Traverse Day 1 - Mt. Ugo Traverse

January 28, 2013, 11:00 pm
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In my past blog entries, I spoke of the 'Great Cordillera Traverses': Pulag, Ugo, Napulauan, Amuyao, and eventually I added the Tirad Pass Traverse on the list. Now, I am convinced that there aren't four or five great traverses in the Cordilleras. There is only one: a 'Grand Cordillera Trail' that passes through all of those mountains, and many more.
With this conviction, I set out to do a part of this envisioned trail by doing a Mt. Ugo Traverse to Mt. Pulag on January 19-22, 2013. The route I had in mind would be a traverse of Mt. Ugo from Itogon to Kayapa as a first section, then the villages from Ugo to Pulag as the second section, and finally, a hike up Mt. Pulag as the third section. These sections, I hoped, would also form the nucleus of the GCT. Joining me were Chris, my American friend, and Mich, who had also joined me in Mt. Bulusan, among others. We were accompanied by my longtime guide in Mt. Ugo, Alex Basilang.
Upon arrival in Baguio City, we chartered an FX that took us to Brgy. Tinongdan, Itogon and then, after registration, down the valley to Itogon River where we started the trek at 0750H. This was still familiar territory to me, since I have traversed Ugo thrice (2008, 2011, 2012). The difference though was that I was doing it from Itogon to Kayapa for the first time. Moreover, having four days' worth of supplies in your bag, compared to just two, makes it more challenging.
Even so, we made good time, reaching Lusod village after 110 minutes of trekking, and the Old Sawmill area by 1146H, or around 4 hours. Ah, the pine trees and wide trails of Ugo! For you, I will always come back. It was not very relaxing, though; we began to feel the trail gradient as we approached the Mt. Ugo summit. Cold, passing clouds alternated with the heat of the midday sun, making the weather unfavorable. Fortunately, by 1430H, we managed to reach the summit of Mt. Ugo - a milestone in what still was a very long trek ahead.

From Mt. Ugo summit, we still couldn't relax as it was still a long way to Indupit village, via Domolpos. The weather became grim; the chill of the clouds became more pronounced, and we rushed through the foot trails from Domolpos to Indupit in the hopes of arriving before nightfall. However, the trail was way too long and it was already 1845H when we finally reached Indupit, where we stayed for the night. By the time we had let go of our packs, we had trekked a total of at least 25 kilometers. And we braced for greater lengths to cover in the coming days.
MT. UGO TRAVERSE TO MT. PULAG
Hiking matters #320: Mt. Ugo Traverse
Hiking matters #321: Indupit - Cabayo
Hiking matters #322: Cabayo - Babadak
Hiking matters #323: Mt. Pulag
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Hiking matters #321: Ugo-Pulag Traverse Day 2 - From Indupit up Mt. Ambasa to Cabayo village

January 29, 2013, 11:49 pm
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Continued from Hiking matters #320: Waking up in Indupit village, I was excited about Day 2, for, from that point onwards, until I reach Mt. Pulag, I would be hiking in trails I've never seen before. Ugo is done; now is the time to connect it with Pulag. Can we manage it? That was the question that lingered in my mind and motivated me to do as much hiking as we can every day.
We started hiking at 0740H on a misty morning, without the views of Mt. Palali and Mt. Pulag that I look forward to when I'm in Indupit. Nonetheless, early on, the trail proved rewarding (and surprising). Just past Indupit, we passed through a beautiful mossy forest which had a lot of limatiks! Who would have thought that Mt. Ugo on its hidden side had this kind of environment? It was mostly downhill until we reached Brgy. Pangawan, the 'Boundary' between Benguet and Nueva Vizcaya. We crossed the road that led to Bokod and Baguio -- certainly this would be a temptation to hikers, of taking the passing bus instead of continuing into the long unknown!
One of the sitios of Pangawan village along the trail
Pangawan was a large barangay with stores and water sources; I munched on a banana, as I've always made it a point to consume as much fruit as possible when trekking, instead of eating processed foods. After a brief stop, we marched onwards, taking the road rough that led to the vegetable farms further north. Further sights came to view: Nayao lake, Dayap village, among others.
Then came the ascent up the slopes of Mt. Ambasa, just as it was high noon, I was calling it 'Mt. Ambasag' as I had though that the day's trek would be more gradual. On the contrary, Ambasa provided a challenge for our legs. In retrospect, though, it was more of the heat than the elevation that made it difficult (In the itinerary I made for a six-day Ugo-Pulag, I made sure that Ambasa is hiked at mid-morning, not at noontime)
Past Mt. Ambasa, there were further surprises: A series of hanging bridges, which added a local flavor to the trail; a tall waterfall, nameless yet beautiful, and a couple of wild boar scampering through the woods. Truly, I though, this was a 'living trail', alive both in the natural and the cultural sense of it. What a privilege it was to be trekking through it!
Philippine warty pig (Sus philippinensis) as viewed from the trail
We may have reached the highest point of the day when we reached the crest in Ambasa; from that point onwards it was a continuous descent, through valleys and more hanging bridges, till we reached Dayap villlage; we no longer stopped, but instead continued on to make the most of our second day.
After three kilometers more of trekking, we reached Cabayo village, which rests at the slopes of Mt. Purgatory. We were warmly welcomed by the locals, and offered us a stay at the barangay health center, which we gladly accepted. "Where are you going?", some of them asked. When I replied "To Mt. Pulag", they were incredulous. "It's a very long way from here!" they exclaimed. And they were right: It would take 25 more kilometers to reach the Ranger Station, and we had over 1300 meters of altitude to gain the next day.
Cabayo village at the slopes of Mt. Purgatory

MT. UGO TRAVERSE TO MT. PULAG
Hiking matters #321: Indupit - Cabayo
Hiking matters #322: Cabayo - Babadak
Hiking matters #323: Mt. Pulag
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Viewpoint: Mt. Pulag may be the coldest place in the Philippines, but we need a thermometer to say exactly how cold

January 31, 2013, 5:12 pm
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by Gideon Lasco

I was in Mt. Pulag two weeks ago as the culmination of my four-day Ugo-Pulag Traverse, and I can personally attest to the cold temperatures that were being reported on news media. I offer my photos of frost in the blades of grass in Mt. Pulag's summit (see above) as my evidence that indeed, temperatures have reached below freezing. 

This is not an unusual phenomenon in Mt. Pulag, and in mountaineering lore. Many hiking clubs, and hikers who love Pulag enough to visit it once a year, will have tales of frozen water bottles, or frosted tents. These anecdotal reports suggest that subzero temperatures in Mt. Pulag are a perennial phenomenon, not just a record-breaking event this 2013.

Some hikers would attest that they have recorded -2 degrees C in Mt, Pulag, and others will go as far as say that the temperature reached minus 5 degrees C. These chilly figures, if validated, would be the lowest recorded temperatures in the Philippines.

But how can we validate these anecdotal reports if we do not have an official, scientific thermometer to corroborate them? Indeed, it is very unfortunate that our news media, when they reported, had to rely on hearsay. For instance, when GMA-7 reported that "temperature reaches zero degree on Mt. Pulag in north Luzon.", their evidence seemed to solely be based on the online brochures of tour operators. In a more carefully-written article in the INQUIRER, the writer noted that PAGASA cannot validate the reports of subzero temperatures, because they do not have a monitoring station in Mt. Pulag. 

I do not cast doubts on the reports of well-meaning hikers and tour groups, because I actually believe them, and I myself testify that it was very cold indeed in Mt. Pulag; I am even offering a photo as my evidence. But temperature is not something that you measure with testimonial or photographic evidence. You measure it with a thermometer, preferably an official one, validated and calibrated by meteorologists and other experts. 

That is why I am calling on PAGASA to set up a monitoring station, or at the very least, an official thermometer, in Mt. Pulag. This will enable them to track the coldest temperatures in the Philippines, which should be of interest to hikers, meteorologists, and the general public alike.
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Do-it-Yourself Mt. Pulag via Ambangeg: The Complete Guide and FAQs

February 1, 2013, 12:38 am
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Do you really need a big group, or a tour, to climb Mt. Pulag? Not at all! This article is an instructional guide for individuals and small groups who wish to do Mt. Pulag by themselves, that is, without availing of a tour. The itineraries that I will be offering in this article are completely dependent on public transportation, or at least, minimizing the need for jeepney rentals. Of course, it cannot be denied that chartering jeepneys or availing of tour groups make it much more convenient. However, for those who have extra time and willingness to take more stops and public transportation, here is a page for you.

Visit the main Mt. Pulag via Ambangeg page in PinoyMountaineer.

MT. PULAG BUDGET 
Manila-Baguio-Manila via Victory 920
Taxi to Slaughterhouse and back 100
Baguio-Bokod-Baguio via A-Liner 250^
Bokod-Babadak-Bokod via habal-habal 400*
Registration fee in Mt. Pulag 225
Guide fee (P1000/group)

PROJECTED EXPENSES
#pax
Transport
cost
1
Public
2895
2
Public
2395
3
Public
2228
5
Public
2095
7
Public
2037
7
Chartered
2387
10
Public
1995
10
Charatered
2045



^10 is the number of persons that would make chartering a jeepney almost as expensive than taking public transportation, assuming 1:1 ratio for habal-habal rides.
*It might be possible for two persons to take one habal-habal

Check out PinoyMountaineer's ten tips for a budget-friendly climb

CONTACTS NEEDED
Emerita Albas +639196315402 - Tell her you are climbing Mt. Pulag on these dates.
Gina Epe +639198169234 - Tell her if you're renting a jeepney from Baguio to Ranger Station

ITINERARY

Day 1
0100 Take bus from Manila to Baguio City
0700 ETA Baguio City Baguio City. Breakfast/Supplies
0800 Head to the bus terminal at Old Slaughterhouse
0900 Take A-Liner bus bound for Kabayan
1200 ETA Visitors' Center. Registration / Orientation / Lunch
1300 Set out for Ranger Station via habal-habal
1400 ETA at Ranger Station; secure guide; Start trek
1700 ETA Camp 2. Set up camp
1800 Dinner at campsite; socials

Day 2
0430 Early morning trek to summit for sunrise
0545 Arrival at summit just in time for sunrise
0700 Start descent from summit
0800 Back at Camp 2; breakfast
0900 Decamp; start descent to Ranger Station
1130 Back at Ranger; Settle guide fees; take
1200 Back at Visitors' Center. Wait for bus back to Baguio*
1600 ETA Baguio City.
1900 Head back to Manila

*Note: Be sure to ask for the last trip. If the Kabayan-Baguio last trip has already passed through it may be possible to ask the habal-habal to take you instead to the the Bokod junction (for an additional 50 pesos or less) and wait there for the Baguio-bound buses coming from Kayapa.

FREQUENTLY-ASKED QUESTIONS

1. Do you have contact numbers of habal-habal drivers in Mt. Pulag?
I don't think you need them, because these vehicles are becoming somewhat of a major form of transport in the area, and thuse they are fairly common. As soon as you arrive in Ambangeg, make known your intention to take habal-habals on the way to the Ranger Station

2. Will taking the bus delay the itinerary?
It will delay the itinerary a bit, because you will arrive at the Ranger Station 2-3 hours behind the usual IT which uses chartered jeepneys. But because the hike in Day 1 is quite easy, it's not really much of a big deal. Just make sure you bring your headlamps (you'll need them anyway for the summit assault the next day)

3. I am a foreigner. Are the costs here applicable to me?
Yes they are applicable. The only possible difference is if the Mt. Pulag National Park charges you the foreigner's rate for the entrance, which I think is around US$10-$15.

4. Are guides really required?
Yes, it is the policy of the Mt. Pulag National Park to require guides. One way to go around this requirement is teaming up with people you meet at the Visitors' Center or Ranger Station: you may want to tag along and just share the guide fee with another group. This is a good idea for solo or duo hikers. Anyway, the trail is easy enough to follow without the constant attention of a guide. 

5. I still find this too expensive. Is there any other alternative?
If you are willing to night trek on the first day (or if you're a really fast hiker), you can possibly walk the entire length from Ambangeg to Babadak, which would take about 3-4 hours, and down, which takes 2-3 hours. This will save you P400 (if you're taking a habal-habal) but note that transportation options to Baguio begin to dim by mid-afternoon. So in general I do not advise this.
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Mt. Batolusong/Mapatag Plateau and Susong Dalaga Peak (645+/780+)

February 2, 2013, 7:51 am
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MT. BATOLUSONG (MAPATAG & SUSONG DALAGA)
Tanay, Rizal
Major jumpoff: Brgy. San Andres, Tanay, Rizal*
LLA: 645 MASL / 780 MASL
Days required / Hours to destination: 1 day /1.5h (Mapatag); 3-4 (Susong Dalaga Peak)
Specs: Minor climb, Difficulty 2/9, Trail class 1-3
Features: Grassland slopes, views of Laguna, Rizal, and Quezon
Article history: Created February 2, 2013

*Note: The major jumpoff used to be Sitio Kay-ibon, Brgy. Cuyambay. However, for the moment (February 2013), this entry point is closed according to the local authorities.

*Note 2: This itinerary is under development. You can contribute to the content of the article and the design of the itineraries by commenting.

BACKGROUND
Mt. Batolusong is one of the 'latest hits' in the local hiking scene, its proximity to Manila spurring a spate of interest in the mountain in 2012 and onwards. It is located between Brgy. Cuyambay and Brgy. San Andres in Tanay, Rizal, pretty much in the same direction as Sta. Ines, the jumpoff of the more popular and more difficult Mt. Irid. It is often compared to nearby Mt. Sembrano, because of some similarities in the two mountains' grassland slopes; Batolusong may be thought of a 'closer and easier' version of Sembrano.

Mt. Batolusong is just one of the many potential hiking destinations in Tanay, since the town is part of the southern tailend of the Sierra Madre, the longest mountain range in the Philippines. The fact that there has been a lot of interest about this mountain augurs well for an 'eastern push' in explorations that can very well see more outlying Sierra Madre peaks becoming popular hikes - either as dayhikes or overnighters - from Manila.

Previously, the recommended jumpoff was Sitio Kay-ibon, Brgy. Cuyambay, just along the Marcos highway. However, since entry using this trailhead has recently been prohibited by local authorities. For this reason, I am adopting Brgy. San Andres as the major jumpoff in this itinerary. Moreover, the trail is very nice from San Andres, passing through some interesting rock formations, and featuring a nice ascent through woodlands up to the Duhatan Ridge leading to Mapatag Plateau.

Mapatag Plateau (645m) can be the final endpoint of the hike; it is a grassland slope that serves as a scenic viewpoint and a possible campsite. Actually, for some locals, "Batolusong" refers to this plateau and the valley next to it. However, it is also possible to go to Susong Dalaga Peak (780m est.) which takes about two hours from Mapatag Plateau according to our San Andres-based guides Boboy and Michael. The itinerary below anticipates various preferences. Should the Sitio Kay-ibon Trail open, a traverse is very possible from San Andres, and vice-versa. Moreover, Kay-Ibon Falls, a little farther off the trail, is a nice detour. Surely, there are many other possibilities in the area!

ITINERARIES

Batolusong (Mapatag Plateau) Dayhike

0500 Leave Manila for Antipolo City (Cogeo Gate 2)
0600 ETA Cogeo Gate 2; Take jeep to Brgy. Sampaloc
0730 Drop off at 'Batangas'; take habal-habal to Brgy. San Andres
0800 ETA Brgy. San Andres; courtesy call to local officials / get guides
0830 Start trek
0945 Arrival at Duhatan Ridge (590m)
1000 Arrival at Mapatag Plateau (645m)
1030 Start descent
1145 Back in Brgy. Sampaloc. Tidy up / Lunch
1230 Head back to ' Batangas'.
1300 ETA 'Batangas' junction; Wait for return jeepney
1430 Back at Antipolo City. Take jeep/bus back to Manila
1600 ETA Manila

Batolusong (Mapatag Plateau and Susong Dalaga) Dayhike
*Note: This is a theoretical itinerary based on my guides' estimates of hiking time up Susong Dalaga Peak. For best results, you may want to try this out first with private transportation so as to maximize time and not jeopardize your return to Manila

0500 Leave Manila for Antipolo City (Cogeo Gate 2)
0600 ETA Cogeo Gate 2; Take jeep to Brgy. Sampaloc
0730 Drop off at 'Batangas'; take habal-habal to Brgy. San Andres
0800 ETA Brgy. San Andres; courtesy call to local officials / get guides
0830 Start trek
0945 Arrival at Duhatan Ridge (590m)
1000 Arrival at Mapatag Plateau (645m)
1015 Start assault to Susong Dalaga Peak
1230 ETA Susong Dalaga Peak / Lunch
1300 Start descent
1430 Back in Mapatag. Continue descending 
1540 Back in Brgy. Sampaloc. Tidy up 
1600 Head back to ' Batangas'.
1630 ETA 'Batangas' junction; Wait for return jeepney
1800 Back at Antipolo City. Take jeep/bus back to Manila
1930 ETA Manila

Batolusong (Mapatag) Traverse + Kay-ibon Falls Sidetrip

Day 1
0900 Leave Manila for Antipolo City (Cogeo Gate 2)
1020 Buy supplies in Antipolo 
1100 Early lunch / Take jeep to Brgy. Sampaloc
1300 Arrival at 'Batangas'; take habal-habal/jeep to Brgy. San Andres
1330 ETA Brgy. San Andres; courtesy call to local officials / get guides
1400 Start trek
1545 Arrival at Duhatan Ridge (590m)
1615 Arrival at Mapatag Plateau (645m). Set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0600 Wake up call
0700 Breakfast
0800 Break camp
0830 Start descent
1000 Arrival at Kay-Ibon Falls
1100 Proceed to Sitio Kay-ibon - Marcos Highway
1130 Arrival at highway; end of trek / Tidy up
1200 Wait for return jeepney
1330 Back at Antipolo City. Take jeep/bus back to Manila
1500 ETA Manila

Batolusong (Mapatag) Overnight

Day 1
0900 Leave Manila for Antipolo City (Cogeo Gate 2)
1020 Buy supplies in Antipolo 
1100 Early lunch / Take jeep to Brgy. Sampaloc
1300 Arrival at 'Batangas'; take habal-habal/jeep to Brgy. San Andres
1330 ETA Brgy. San Andres; courtesy call to local officials / get guides
1400 Start trek
1545 Arrival at Duhatan Ridge (590m)
1615 Arrival at Mapatag Plateau (645m). Set up camp
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0600 Wake up call
0700 Breakfast
0800 Break camp
0830 Start descent
1000 Back at Brgy. San Andres. Tidy up
1100 Take jeepney/habal-habal back to highway
1130 Wait for return jeepney
1300 Back at Antipolo City. Take jeep/bus back to Manila
1430 ETA Manila

PRACTICALITIES
Transportation. From Manila (i.e. Cubao) head to Antipolo City, particularly to the Cogeo Gate 2 terminal. The Cogeo Gate 2 jeepney is the same jeep that hikers take to Mt. Irid. Get off at 'Batangas' junction where there is an entrance arch for Brgy. San Andres. Take a habal-habal to the barangay (P70/trip).

Registration and guides. Right now, it is uncertain. Under the old setup, hikers are asked to register at the PSD Outpost in Sitio Kay-ibon. With this new trailhead, the logical registration point is the barangay hall or with the barangay officials of Brgy. San Andres. However, it is also very possible that municipality of Tanay may demand that hikers get a permit from them as well. Considering the history of insurgency in Rizal province, this is very understandable but I hope they do not impose it since it will be very inconvenient for hikers if they will have to go all the way to Tanay proper. 

As for guides, look for Boboy and Michael; they both know the way. Unfortunately there is no cellphone signal in Brgy. San Andres and thus no way to reach them other than just going there. P400/day is a reasonable rate for guideship; or P600/day for two guides if the guide insists on having a companion. 

Hiking notes. The Sapa ng Batolusong is the clear stream that one would pass through prior to the end of the trail using the Sitio Kay-ibon Trail. Some accounts like this good resource say that this river swells during the rainy season.

Camping notes. There are no water sources in Mapatag Plateau and for most of the trail. Cellphone signal is present in Mapatag but not in the trailhead or most parts of the trail. 

Rock formations along the San Andres trail up Mt. Batolusong
Duhatan Ridge is so named after the duhat trees that grow in this beautiful
ridgeline
The blogger at Mapatag Plateau, February 2, 2013
MT. BATOLUSONG PICTURES

TRIVIA
The blogger's hike up Mt. Batolusong will be narrated in Hiking matters #325.




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Hiking matters #322: Ugo-Pulag Traverse Day 3 - From Cabayo and Balete to Mt. Pulag's Babadak Ranger Station

February 8, 2013, 4:27 am
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Continued from Hiking matters #321: After a restful night at Cabayo village, we continued our sojourn through the villages of Kayapa and Bokod in an attempt to connect Mt. Ugo and Mt. Pulag in one trek as part of a longer 'Grand Cordillera Trail'. For the third day, the goal was to reach Babadak Ranger Station, jumpoff of Mt. Pulag's Ambangeg Trail.

More hanging bridges awaited us from Cabayo to Sitio Abat, some of which were dilapidated and precarious enough to evoke some apprehension on our part. In fact, Kuya Alex ruled out the possibility of night trekking through that section, because of the bridges. My only confidence rested in the fact that these trails are used by the locals on an everyday basis, therefore it must be safe.

Hanging bridges imply the existence of rivers, and indeed, we passed through a beautiful river; for a good hour or two we trekked on a valley, with the slopes of Mt. Purgatory on the west flank, and the slopes of Mt. Pulag in the north, and the slopes of Mt. Pullol in Ambaguio in the east. It was really an awesome experience trekking in places like that beautiful valley, rarely visited as it is by outsiders.
Adding a cultural twist to the scenery, and reminding me of Mt. Amuyao Traverse, we passed through a bit of rice terraces as we approached Sitio Abat. We arrived there at 1040H; after a brief rest stop we proceeded directly to Balete, hoping to reach it early in the afternoon. But it was not to be an easy trail! Reminiscent of Mt. Ambasa the previous day, we had to gain a few hundred meters just to reach the crest, which marks the fork between Brgy. Napo, Ambaguio (NNE, down) and Brgy. Balete, Kayapa (WNW, up).

Though both can lead to Mt. Pulag, we decided to pass through Balete. I wanted to see this trail, since I had already passed through sections of the alternate route, when I did the Akiki-Ambaguio Traverse in 2010. As an early reward for visiting Balete, we saw the stunning waterfalls the locals call Dumanling Falls.

I have mixed feelings about this decision. On one hand, the Balete-Babadak road leads directly to the Ranger Station after about 15 kilometers in a gradual ascent, and passes through mossy forests. On the other hand, it's more of a rough road now than a trail; habal-habal now pass through, and occasional trucks; it is more like Tapulao  of the 1990s. I was saddened to see the fallen trees, once part of the mossy forest, bulldozed in the time of 'progress'. But is there a mountain community in the Cordillera that does not desire a road to their village?

If it's any consolation, wild berries, which I suspect thrive in areas with sunlight and high mineral content, were abundant in the trail, and I took time to pick some of them, as is my custom whenever I see such trees in Philippine mountains. I would need the energy: it would still take several hours from Balete before we finally reached Babadak - well into the evening, at around 1940H. But it was a great relief! Once again, I was in familiar territory. We made it!



MT. UGO TRAVERSE TO MT. PULAG
Hiking matters #320: Mt. Ugo Traverse
Hiking matters #321: Indupit - Cabayo
Hiking matters #322: Cabayo - Babadak
Hiking matters #323: Mt. Pulag
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San Jose Circuit: Mt. Tangisan (491m), Mt. Bungkol Baka (617m), and Mt. Kawayan (595m)

February 10, 2013, 7:20 am
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SAN JOSE CIRCUIT: MTS. TANGISAN, BUNGKOL BAKA & KAWAYAN
San Jose, Tarlac
Major jumpoff: Sitio San Pedro, Brgy. Iba, San Jose
LLA (Mt. Tangisan):  15°26'8.22"N, 120°23'47.63"E, 491 MASL, 4km
LLA (Bungkol Baka):  15°24'44.74"N, 120°22'57.75"E, 617 MASL, 9.3km
LLA (Mt. Kawayan): 15°24'24.83"N, 120°23'39.71"E, 595 MASL, 11.5km
Days required / Hours to peaks: 1-2 days / 1.5-2.5h (T); 4-6h (B); 5-7.5 (K)
Trail length: 17.7 kms (Loop: San Pedro-Tangisan-Bungkol Baka-Kawayan-San Pedro)
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 6/9 (SJC dayhike), Trail class 1-3
Features: Scenic views of Central Luzon and Zambales mountains
Article history: Created February 10, 2013

Note: This itinerary is still under construction as of February 10, 2013

BACKGROUND
The western towns of Tarlac, particularly San Clemente, Mayantoc, and San Jose, are a fertile ground for hiking exploration and documentation, being located at the foothills of the Zambales mountain range. These towns are the access points to approach the Zambales mountains from the west, and the most notable of them (and the only one in common use today) is the well-received Mt. Tapulao Traverse. Moreover, there are also foothills that serve as hiking destinations in themselves. For instance, Mt. Damas, in San Clemente, Tarlac is becoming a popular hiking destination.

Another such trek through the foothills is what I call the San Jose Circuit, which combines three small mountains: Mt. Tangisan, Mt. Bungkol Baka, and Mt. Kawayan, to form a very nice loop trail originating and ending in Sitio San Pedro, Brgy. Iba. The total trail length is around 17-18 kms. This hike features scenic views of the rural San Jose villages and fields, as well as rocky peaks that serve as viewpoints to the great mountains of Zambales, as well as the Central Luzon plains, where Mt. Arayat stands as a solitary giant.

Both Mt. Tangisan and Mt. Bungkol Baka have been climbed by hikers in the past decade, but usually as individual hikes. As early as 2008, Tarlac Mountaineering Club has shared a Mt. Bungkol Baka itinerary with PinoyMountaineer.com This article also provides information to do these mountains as separate hikes and is the successor article to the Bungkol Baka and Mt. Tangisan itineraries in the website. However, I will also be offering an itinerary that combines these two mountains, plus a third peak, Mt. Kawayan, for longer, more exciting trip that makes the trip from Manila well worth it. This can either be a long dayhike, or a more relaxed (but still challenging) overnight hike.

Most hikes in the Philippines are backtrails and traverses; I think we need more loop trails, where the trail is not repeated in most part of the hike (just like a traverse) but the entry and exit points are the same (just like a backtrail). The trail is one such trail, originating and terminating in Sitio San Pedro, Brgy. Iba, San Jose. What follows is a description of the trail. But first, check out this map to have an idea of the trail:

SAN JOSE CIRCUIT TRAIL MAP
TRAIL DESCRIPTION

Part 1: Sitio San Pedro to Mt. Tangisan (~4 kms). After walking through the vicinity of Sitio San Pedro, the trail quickly becomes moderately steep through the flanks of Mt. Tangisan, with a total vertical gain of around 370 meters. Environment consists mostly of shrubs and sparsely-distributed forest trees; it can feel very dry and hot especially during the summer months. As you go up the mountain, you will have a view of the scenic pond and ricefields (ESE). The trail will get steeper and less established as you reach the higher reaches of the mountain, and eventually you will reach the peaks of Tangisan. There are several peaks, with the highest reaching 491 MASL. Here, there are views of the rice fields and river in Brgy. Iba, as well as the surrounding peaks. The Zambales mountains, including Mt. Sawtooth and Mt. Tapulao lie west. If you are just doing Mt. Tangisan, you can just head back using this trail, completing an 8-kilometer hike that would take just 3-4 hours.

Part 2: Mt. Tangisan to Mt. Bungkol Baka (~5 km). From Mt. Tangisan, it is possible to follow the ridgeline of the peaks on a SSW direction and descend the mountain obliquely, losing about 300 meters of altitude, passing through a plantation of bananas, and reaching a clear stream, which can serve a water source and, if the trek is done as a dayhike, a convenient lunch or rest stop. From this stream, the trail meanders up the slopes between Mt. Bungkol Baka and Mt. Kawayan. The goal is to reach the 'Junction', a relatively flat patch surrounded by guava trees that is a. From here, you can assault Mt. Bungkol Baka. There are two peaks, an initial squarish peak that is essentially an imposing rocky outcrop reaching 551 MASL, and, optionally a round peak rising to 617 MASL, the highest point in the hike.

Part 3: Mt. Bungkol Baka to Mt. Kawayan (2 km). A very short section, this hike entails descending from Mt. Bungkol Baka back to the junction, then taking an oblique approach up Mt. Kawayan, ascending it from the not-so-steep southeast face. If you decided to skip the summit of Bungkol Baka, this is the highest point, reaching 595 MASL. Mt. Kawayan, being the southernmost of the three peaks, is a great viewpoint to see Central Luzon, particularly, Mt. Arayat (SE).

Part 4: Mt. Kawayan to Sitio San Pedro (~6 km). This downhill trail is quite steep and slippery initially, but becomes wider, gentler, and much easier as you continue your descent. Though the longest section of the trail, this is also the easiest, since it is almost entirely flat or descending. If in approaching Mt. Tangisan you were at the north of the pond, this time, you will approach the pond from the south, before reconnecting to the rough road the near the bridge in Sitio San Pedro, completing a loop of over 17 kms.

ITINERARIES

MT. TANGISAN DAYHIKE
Difficulty: 3/9

0300 Take any northbound bus from Manila that passes Tarlac City
0530 ETA Siesta Bus Terminal, Tarlac City. Breakfast
0630 Take rented jeepney to Brgy. Iba, San Jose, Tarlac
0730 ETA Brgy. Iba. Cross river / Trek to Sitio San Pedro
0800 Arrival at Sitio San Pedro. Secure guides.
0830 Start trekking
1100 ETA Mt. Tangisan summit. Early lunch.
1200 Start descent
1400 Back at Sitio San Pedro
1430 Back at Brgy. Iba. Tidy up
1500 Take rented jeep back to Tarlac City
1600 ETA Tarlac City / Take bus back to Manila
2000 Back in Manila

MT. BUNGKOL BAKA-MT. KAWAYAN DAYHIKE
Difficulty: 4/9

0300 Take any northbound bus from Manila that passes Tarlac City
0530 ETA Siesta Bus Terminal, Tarlac City. Breakfast
0630 Take rented jeepney to Brgy. Iba, San Jose, Tarlac
0730 ETA Brgy. Iba. Cross river / Trek to Sitio San Pedro
0800 Arrival at Sitio San Pedro. Secure guides.
0830 Start trekking
1115 ETA Junction
1145 ETA Bungkol Baka Peak 1 (551m)
1200 ETA Mt. Bungkol Baka summit*. Early lunch.
1300 Start descent
1500 ETA Mt. Kawayan summit
1530 Start descent
1730 Back in Sitio Iba / Tidy up
1830 Take rented jeep back to Tarlac City
1930 ETA Tarlac City / Dinner
2030 Take bus back to Manila
2330 Back in Manila

SAN JOSE CIRCUIT DAYHIKE
Difficulty: 6/9

0200 Take any northbound bus from Manila that passes Tarlac City
0430 ETA Siesta Bus Terminal, Tarlac City / Breakfast
0500 Take rented jeepney to Brgy. Iba, San Jose, Tarlac
0600 ETA Brgy. Iba. Cross river / Trek to Sitio San Pedro
0630 Arrival at Sitio San Pedro. Secure guides.
0700 Start trekking
0900 ETA Mt. Tangisan summit.
0930 Start descent via SSW face
1045 ETA water source / Early lunch
1130 Resume trek
1300 ETA Bayabas Junction
1330 ETA Mt. Bungkol Baka summit
1345 Head to Mt. Kawayan via Junction
1530 ETA Mt. Kawayan
1730 Back at Sitio San Pedro
1800 Back at Brgy. Iba /Tidy up
1900 Take rented jeep back to Tarlac City
2000 ETA Tarlac City / Dinner
2100 Take bus back to Manila
0000 Back in Manila


SAN JOSE CIRCUIT OVERNIGHT
Difficulty: 5/9

Day 1
0200 Take any northbound bus from Manila that passes Tarlac City
0430 ETA Siesta Bus Terminal, Tarlac City / Breakfast
0500 Take rented jeepney to Brgy. Iba, San Jose, Tarlac
0600 ETA Brgy. Iba. Cross river / Trek to Sitio San Pedro
0630 Arrival at Sitio San Pedro. Secure guides.
0700 Start trekking
1000 ETA Mt. Tangisan summit.
1030 Start descent via SSW face
1200 ETA water source (load up) / Lunch
1300 Resume trek
1530 ETA Bayabas Junction. Set up camp
1600 Assault Mt. Bungkol baka's peaks
1730 Back to Junctton
1800 Dinner / socials

Day 2
0530 Optional sunrise hike up Mt. Bungkol Baka
0700 Breakfast / Break camp
0800 Start trek to Mt. Kawayan
0900 ETA Mt. Kawayan.
1000 Start descent
1200 ETA river (water source) / lunch
1300 Resume trek
1400 Back in Sitio San Pedro
1445 Back in Brgy. Iba / Tidy up
1700 Take rented jeep back to Tarlac City
1800 ETA Tarlac City / Dinner
1900 Take bus back to Manila
2200 Back in Manila

PRACTICALITIES
Getting there. Siesta Terminal in Tarlac City is a major terminal of northbound buses like Victory Liner. To get there, take any northbound (i.e. Baguio, Dagupan City) bus from Cubao or Pasay (~P200). From Tarlac City, rent a jeepney going to San Jose (P1500). It is also possible to take the regular jeepney from Tarlac.

Registration and guides. Guides may be secured at Sitio San Pedro for P500/day. I am in the process of confirming more details regarding this.

Hiking notes. Tarlac mountains are characteristically hot and dry, especially during the summer months; prepare accordingly. From Brgy. Iba to  Sitio San Pedro, you have to cross a river which can reach knee-deep or even waist-deep heights, depending on the season. You may want to wear sandals first before wearing shoes if you want to avoid getting your feet wet right at the start of the hike. Water levels may rise so be cautious.

Camping notes. I am imagining that the Bayabas Junction would be the best place to camp, since it would be cool during the evening, and although there is no water source, at least it is not as far from the water source as the peaks of either Bungkol Baka or Kawayan.

SAN JOSE CIRCUIT PICTURES
At one of the rocky peaks of Mt. Tangisan

The beautiful pond surrounded by the three mountains.

View of San Jose town from the summit of Mt. Tangisan

Assaulting the rocky Peak 1 (551m) of Mt. Bungkol Baka

The blogger with members of GAME-NEST, a Tarlac-based hiking club

Mt. Arayat as viewed from Mt. Kawayan summit

TRIVIA
Mts. Tangisan, Bungkol Baka, and Kawayan are within the homeland of the ethnic Abeling people -- you will have a chance to interact with them for their men are the ones who serve as guides/porters for this trek. The Abeling are similar to the Aeta - but their hair are not curly, and they have sharper noses.

A predecessor article entitled "Mt. Bungkol Baka" was posted in PinoyMountaineer.com as early as 2008, based on information  provided by the Tarlac Mountaineering Club, one of the pioneers in exploring the area. Among the (if not the) first hikers to climb up the peaks in San Jose are the UP Mountaineers.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PinoyMountaineer thanks members of the GAME-NEST hiking club based in Tarlac City, Tarlac for accompanying him and his friends in the first San Jose Circuit dayhike on February 9, 2013. An account of this hike will be narrated in Hiking matters #326.
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Viewpoint: I hope that all organizers will limit the number of participants to 30 at a time

February 13, 2013, 12:07 am
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I hope that all hiking clubs and tour operators in the Philippines will limit the number of participants to 30 persons at any time, in any climb, in any mountain. Masyado nang marami ang hikers and we need to regulate ourselves, instead of waiting for the DENR to set limits. Why 30? Because it's a safe number that I think most people will agree on. In the past, I have also organized some hikes that exceeded this number. I will not do so again. An important part of hiking is learning from your mistakes and I have listened to many points of view before articulating this position. With respect and humility, I hope that others too will follow this limit that I think will ultimately be for the good of our beloved mountains and our country :)
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Hiking matters #323: Ugo-Pulag Traverse Day 4 - The summit of Mt. Pulag, journey's end

February 13, 2013, 8:08 pm
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Continued from Hiking matters #322: I slept well at the Ranger Station, relieved that once again I'm back in familiar territory. Relative to the three long days of hiking, the fourth will be easy; it's time to enjoy the views and reap the rewards of a lengthy hike. We woke up not too early, deciding to skip the sunrise but still start early enough to catch the nice views.
The first time I reached the summit of Mt. Pulag - in 2003 - I was accompanied by a dog, Chica, and we also started from the Ranger Station. Ten years later, I would follow the same route but this time following a much longer hike from Mt. Ugo. The dog is gone and I have grown: I was a college student then and a medical doctor now. Things change, but it is precisely the mutability of people that makes us appreciate the immutable, like the mountains. We should strive to keep it that way.
The cold of Mt. Pulag manifested to me in the form of frost, which I saw in the grass past Camp 2. Then some of the nice mountains began to emerge: Mt. Amuyao (NE) with only its peak visible above the clouds; Mts. Panotoan and Tabayoc (N) and Mt. Timbak (NW) were also there. I tried in vain to search for Mts. Salingsingan and Purgatory but they were obscured by clouds; at least Mt. Ugo (S) where we came from was visible - a reminder of the Ugo-Pulag traverse we had just done, as well as Mt. Sto. Tomas (SW).
Needless to say, I enjoyed the cold of Pulag, as well as the solitude of being there on a weekday. Had that dog of my first Pulag climb barked that beautiful morning - I would have heard her even from the forests of Tawangan. As our Ugo guide Alex, our Pulag guide Daniel, and Mich rested at the summit, I contemplated on the future direction that the Grand Cordillera Trail can take. And there and then, I made up mind. The adventure will continue!

PinoyMountaineer thanks everyone who made the Ugo-Pulag traverse possible, including my companions Chris and Mich, our esteemed guide Kuya Alex, the friendly people in Ugo and Pulag, and in the villages in between. May God bless you all!

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Now available: The New Pinoy Mountaineer Drifit Long Sleeves!

February 15, 2013, 6:38 am
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The New Pinoy Mountaineer Drifit Shirts are now available in long sleeved editions! Using highly breathable, lightweight fabrics, this latest  offering comes in five colors: White, Royal Blue, Red, Black and Navy Blue for only P450 each!

Moreover, the shirt comes with a back reflector. Also, the sleeves are streamlined, allowing for circulation but at the same time comfortable movement.

Meanwhile, the Shirt no. 9 series is still available! Check this out for more details.


You can avail of the shirts in all The Perfect White Shirt branches:

GLORIETTA - 3rd Floor, Teenzone, Glorietta 3, Makati City

TRINOMA - 2nd Floor, Teenzone, Trinoma, Quezon City

MARKET!MARKET! - K6, New Wing, Ground Floor

ALABANG TOWN CENTER- 2nd floor, in front of T-shirt Project, near National Bookstore

ROBINSONS PLACE ERMITA - Padre Faura Wing, First Level, infront of Goldilocks

ROBINSONS MAGNOLIA - 2nd level, near The Athlete's Foot


For online orders and inquiries please email shirts@pinoymountaineer.com or PM The Perfect White Shirt in FB: www.facebook.com/messages/theperfectwhiteshirt

PINOYMOUNTAINEER NUMBERED SHIRTS

Shirt no.1: Don't change the mountain
Shirt no. 2: Take nothing  but pictures
Buti na lang may climb bukas
Shirt no. 3: I love the mountains
Shirt no. 4: Hike
Shirt no. 5: It's more fun in the Philippine mountains
Shirt no. 6: For the love of hiking
Shirt no. 7: Get High
Shirt no. 8: Mountaineer
Shirt no. 9.1: Stop Dreaming, Start Climbing
Shirt no. 9.2: Mind Over Mountain
Shirt no. 9.3: Hike For Life

DRI FIT SHIRTS
Dri Fit no. 1: Classic
Dri Fit no. 2: Tri-color
Long Sleeved Dri Fit Shirt 



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Hiking matters #324: It's Batulao time again!

February 17, 2013, 2:01 am
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 Mt. Batulao is one of my favorite dayhikes. The hike is scenic and is a great exercise. Its open slopes and windy peaks are my idea of 'freedom of the hills'; its rolling trails make for a good weekend workout. Moreover, it's always good to have a mountain (or two) you regularly hike as an index of your physical fitness. Finally, it is close to Tagaytay City where I love to foodtrip and hang out with friends, and if I'm up for it, it's also very close to Mt. Talamitam which can make for two dayhikes in one day.


My latest visit to Mt. Batulao came at the heels of the Ugo-Pulag Traverse, thus far my biggest hike of the year. I was joined with some of my hiking friends: Mayan Gutierrez and her friends, Pastor Joe Bonifacio and Rica Peralejo together with their churchmates. I left Los Banos at around 0400H to rendezvous with them in Tagaytay at 0530H, then we convoyed to Evercrest.
The technique in Mt. Batulao, if you want it as a dayhike, is to start really early in morning, or a bit late in the afternoon. That way, you avoid the noontime heat. Early in the morning, the weather in Batulao is Tagaytay-like and it go that way for the whole day but sometimes it can get very hot especially if there is no wind. I think it's fun to meet hikers along the trail, but unfortunately  We started trekking at around 0730H. 
We passed by the New Trail and saw that our friend Janet Belarmino's hut has been destroyed by the elements. Locals were still starting to set up their stalls of buko juice and other refreshments; they were clearly expecting a big day ahead. We entered the woodlands past the New Trail campsite and reemerged to enjoy the narrow winding trails that characterize Batulao. By 0910H we were at the summit. Congratulations to the first timers who made it!
The descent, via the Old Trail, was made easier (especially for the first timers) by the ropes that are now in place in the steep sections immediately below the summit. The rest of the descent was routine. We had late lunch in Tagaytay. By 1700H I was back in Los Banos. Thanks to everyone who joined this fun hike, and greetings to those we met along the trail!
PS: You can also check out Rica's article about our hike in Manila Bulletin for another perspective.
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Mountain News: Mt. Pulag is 'fully booked'; 30 is new maximum number of participants

February 20, 2013, 4:34 pm
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Park Superintendent Emerita Albas
Park Superintendent Emerita Albas of the Mt. Pulag National Park told PinoyMountaineer.com that all March weekends are fully booked due to the sheer volume of people who have informed the park of their intention to climb on those dates. However, Mondays to Fridays are wide open.

The news of Mt. Pulag National Park discouraging hikers to climb on weekends gave rise to rumors that Mt. Pulag is 'closed'. However, this was belied by Ms. Albas. "I am encouraging all hikers to consider hiking during weekdays, when there are only a few people," she said, adding that she also already appealed to organizers to modify their schedules accordingly. 

The PASU also said that she is setting 30 as the new upper limit of the number of participants per group, particularly on weekends. On weekdays, however, the park can accommodate up to 40 but a smaller size is still recommended. It is important to note, though, that the '30 as upper limit' rule is at the moment a recommendation and an appeal to would-be hikers rather than an imposition. "30 sana ang maximum," Ms. Albas reiterates. 

In a related development, parts of the Akiki trail have suffered from brushfires in the past weeks, a phenomenon that has also happened in previous years. Due to the additional sun exposure brought about by this incident, she recommends the Akiki trail be tried only by experienced hikers, and also suggests 15 as the maximum number of participants per group in this trail.

These new developments that set limits to participants will surely be welcomed by many hikers in light of the recent buzz regarding what is perceived as an overcrowding in Mt. Pulag that goes beyond its carrying capacity. However, considering how divisive this environmental issue has been, reactions will likely be mixed, with others batting for stricter measures. Moreover, how well these new policies, being non-binding, will be implemented remains to be seen.

(For its part, PinoyMountaineer.com amended its main Mt. Pulag article last week to include an environmental concerns section, which includes this advice: "To reduce impact on Mt. Pulag, PinoyMountaineer suggests avoiding camping in the weekends or peak seasons such as the Holy Week, or minimizing group number to 15 or fewer (with 30 as upper limit).")

Others have called for self-regulation, as well as the need to orient hikers before climbing. Notably, though, Mt. Pulag is actually one of the few mountains in the country where an environmental briefing is done prior to the climb so the problem may really lie in the volume of hikers. Moreover, of carrying capacity, Ms. Albas says, "We are waiting for the results of a research study. I have already informed some organizers about this several times."

For clarifications regarding Mt. Pulag's new policies, you may contact the Park Superintendent, Ms. Emerita Albas, at +639196315402.
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Hiking matters #328: My thoughts on Mt. Maculot's New Trail

February 20, 2013, 7:12 pm
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Caught in a busy academic schedule, I wasn't planning on a hike last weekend, but I realized that I could squeeze in a Maculot hike with some of my other activities of the day, and so left Los Banos early in the morning, met with Ivan Lakwatesero in Calamba, and we proceeded to Cuenca, Batangas to visit the Rockies. One of my reasons for choosing Maculot was to check out the so-called 'New Trail' which opened just a couple of weeks ago to replace the old one.

Walking from the Mountaineer's Store to the end of the cement road one kilometer up, it seems that the community is geared up for summer: There are pay parking lots and even a restaurant offering shower facilities; all of these obviously cater to Maculot hikers. Indeed, one can expedite the hike even more by going straight to this area instead of parking near the Mountaineer's Store.
Past the cement road, it takes just around 500 meters or so before you reach a forested area, where you descend a bit then commence the ascent all the way to the grassland and the Rockies. With the New Trail, however, instead of taking the right trail, you take the left one. Both trails are well-marked: on one hand, the Old Trail is obstructed by a pile of branches. On the other hand, big trail signs and white arrows mark the New Trail.

What do I think about this change in Maculot? I have mixed feelings about the New Trail. Since it runs parallel to the old one, there is little difference in terms of distance. It is a bit more 'gradual', but since it doesn't always follow the natural contour of the mountain, there are also more slippery parts, with less big trees to hold on to.  In terms of difficulty, I would say it's almost the same as the old one.

There are more rest areas in the 'New Trail', which also means more stalls for buko juice vendors. Sadly, even though the 'New Trail' is only two or three weeks old, the trail is quickly getting littered with plastic glasses and other trash. I really do not advice hikers to patronize any store along the trail, because this will encourage more business activities. If you want to support the community, it's better to support stores at the trailhead.

Still, I am willing to give the community the benefit of a doubt. The fact that they cite the need to rehabilitate the old trail as a reason for making a new one means that they at least care. I hope, however, that the locals - including these buko juice vendors - realize that they need to proactively care for the mountain if it is to remain an attraction to hikers.

Anyway, the New Trail reunites with the old one at the grassland; the forest line seems to be a bit higher in the New Trail. From this convergence point, the campsite is just five or ten minutes away. I think in terms of views, the best time to be at the Rockies is early in the morning, also because the crowds have not begun to arrive yet. There, we saw faint Mt. Tagapo (NNE), Mt. Batulao (W), among the familiar mountains of South Luzon.

Soon, we were back at the trailhead and I was back in Laguna by mid-afternoon. It was another nice hike and I'm glad I decided to still hike on that day! Thanks Ivan for joining me! Check out his blog, Ivan Lakwatsero, at www.ivanlakwatsero.com.

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Hiking matters #325: Mt. Batolusong in Tanay, Rizal

February 22, 2013, 5:48 am
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The Sierra Madre is actually the mountain range closest to Manila, and yet it is not well-explored, and this is due to security concerns through several decades. However, the situation is becoming increasingly peaceful in many parts of the range, opening up the possibility of more explorations. Particularly, the towns of Rizal hold promise as gateways to the range.
In Tanay, Rizal, for instance, there are a number of hike spots that are getting discovered. For a long time, there has been Mt. Irid with its famed river crossings (which I have yet to try) and of late I have been hearing of Mt. Batolusong, which seemed to be in the same area. So on February 2, 2013, I decided to check it out with Mayan, AJ, and Lee.
We had a somewhat bad start at first, when we were told that the Sitio Kay-ibon jumpoff is closed as ordered by the authorities. Fortunately we were advised by some friendly locals that there is an alternate way via Brgy. San Andres, just a few kilometers away. So we decided to go there instead, parking at the 'Batangas junction' and taking habal-habals to the barangay. From there, we were guided by Boboy and Michael, who were seconded to us by a barangay tanod.
So we went up the mountain, initially passing through some rice fields, before starting a relatively sleep trail through some woods, and seeing some nice rock formations along the way. It was a very short ascent, taking just an hour or so before reaching the grassland, which were reminiscent of Mt. Sembrano. Fortunately, there was some wind and it was already late afternoon so we had a pleasant experience. Mapatag Plateau, which is the common endpoint of the hike, was a very refreshing place: imagine a windy Gulugod Baboy.
According to some online resources, like this informative post by Ser Mountaineer, Banahaw and Cristobal are visible in the higher reaches of the mountain. It sure looks like it. Unfortunately, it was very cloudy when we were there so we didn't see it. Still, the near-vicinity views were very pleasant and I enjoyed the rolling hills. Moreover, to the east lay the higher Mt. Susong Dalaga which looks very promising as a future destination. I should definitely go back to the area!
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Hiking matters #326: Manabu Peak revisited

February 22, 2013, 6:42 am
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On February 7, 2013, Agot Isidro and I went for a weekday hike up Manabu Peak. We met up early in the morning in Turbina and proceeded to Brgy. Sta Cruz, Sto. Tomas, Batangas via Lipa through the STAR Tollway. At the jumpoff, we were pleasantly surprised to see our friend Carina Dayondon, who was a guest hiker in a company outing.
Agot and I went ahead to do the usual Manabu Peak loop, going up via Mang Pirying's place at first, then descending across the summit down the Grotto. I appreciated the tranquility of Manabu Peak during our hike, something that is becoming a rarity on weekends. Indeed, the forested parts of the mountain seemed very pleasant that day. This, as I told Agot, was the Manabu that I first climbed, nine years ago.
  Soon we we are at the summit, and from there, I tried to identify as many peaks as I can. As usual, clouds were obstructing Banahaw, Cristobal, and Makiling; but the other peaks of Laguna - Kalisugan, Atimla and friends - were very nice to behold, as well as the mountains of Batangas. To the south, Mt. Pinamucan lay as a very intriguing presence, and at well over 700 MASL, the highest mountain in Batangas that I haven't climbed yet. Someday!
Going back to the hike, the descent via the Grotto was at first steep but eventually, the trail becomes wide and gradual, through the forest; the entire descent was very swift and by lunchtime I was back in Los Banos!
PINOYMOUNTAINEER IN MANABU PEAK
Hiking matters #80: For the love of coffee and fresh mountain air
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Hiking matters #327: Mt. Tangisan, Mt. Bungkol Baka, and Mt. Kawayan in one dayhike!

February 25, 2013, 12:50 am
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Seven months after we did the Mt. Damas dayhike traverse (Hiking matters #282), My friends and I once again joined the GAME-NEST hiking club for a hike in their province, Tarlac. Just like Mt. Damas, this second adventure of ours proved to be a very enjoyable, very challenging dayhike, taking us not one, nor two, but three mountains: Tangisan, Bungkol Baka, and Kawayan, constituting what can be called the 'San Jose Circuit' (check out the article here).
Joining me from Manila were Sir Martin, Chrissie (Jovial Wanderer), and for the first time, Jay Z Jorge. For their part, GAME-NEST was led by Emman Miclat and Chad Torres, together with several club members (see their names in the acknowledgment below). We all met up at the McDo in Tarlac, near the Siesta Bus Terminal, then proceeded to the jumpoff using a truck. At Brgy. Iba, which is one of the possible jumpoffs, we were welcomed by San Jose Vice Mayor Romeo Capitulo, who expressed support for hiking activities in their area.
 From Brgy. Iba, we had to cross a river, which, though shallow, had rocks that were too slippery that there was no choice but to wade in the water. So the very first leg of the hike, no more than 5 minutes from the trailhead, involved having your shoes wet! Anyway, this was not going to dampen our spirits. After five or ten minutes we reached Sitio San Pedro, which is actually also accessible by a jeep or truck and is thus a better jumpoff. Here is where you get guides, and we had ours named Ato to join us.

An initial stroll through rice fields and wide roads will take you to a bridge, where the real hike begins. First up was Mt. Tangisan. It is very hot in Tarlac and we felt it from the very start of the hike. Tangisan was quite steep but not really difficult, yet the intense heat of the sun takes its toll. So we relished brief stops in shaded parts of the mountain, which are few and far between! After an hour or so from the bridge we had reached the summit of Mt. Tangisan (491m).
Mt. Tangisan's peaks are very scenic, offering a closer view of the typical Central Luzon scene, making it complementary to the more macroscopic panorama afforded by Mt. Arayat. Rice fields, rivers and irrigation waterforms characterize the landscape in three directions, but to the west lay the Zambales mountains; we saw the jagged peaks of Sawtooth Mountain (E) but only the slopes of the cloud-covered Mt. Tapulao.
From Mt. Tangisan, we headed down via its southeastern flank to connect to the common trail leading to Bungkol Baka and Kawayan. This side of Tangisan was also quite steep, and we had to lose a few hundred meters, reaching some banana patches and streams. By 1230H, we were at the only water source of the trail, by the stream, and we decided to have lunch there.
After thirty minutes, we headed eastward, following some woodlands before finally emerging up the familiar grassland and sparse shrubberies that characterize the peaks and slopes of the San  Jose mountains. By 1430H, we reached the 'Junction' that divides Bungkol Baka and Kawayan.

From there, we assaulted Bungkol Baka, reaching it by 1500H. There are two peaks: the initial one is atop a rocky formation; there is the option to hit the second, higher one, which is probably the highest point in the whole trial system.

From Bungkol Baka, we decided to go for Kawayan, citing the one irrefutable argument of hiking: "Bakit hindi ko pa gagawin e nadyan na? Sayang naman!" It took another hour (and a 'close encounter' with a herd of cows before we reached the summit of Kawayan, which stands at 595 MASL. This mountain, which is the southernmost of the three, offers beautiful views of Mt. Arayat and the plains of Tarlac, Pampanga, and Bataan! It's always nice to spot Arayat (ESE).
From Kawayan, it would take two more hours, so by the time we reached the village, it was already almost 1900H. In all, it was a 10-hour hiking day, but a very rewarding one with three peaks! Back in Brgy. Iba, Vice Mayor Capitulo prepared a very nice dinner for us, and we of course obliged with much gusto! We then went back, and by 0130H I was home in Los Banos.

PinoyMountaineer thanks the GAME-NEST guys who joined us: Chad, John, Tom, Willie "Tribal Governor", Myk, Lebi, Camelo, Mon, Toybam, and Israel as well as Vice Mayor Capitulo for accommodating us! Till next time! 
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Hiking matters #328: A short hike up Imok Hill (Imoc Hill) in San Pablo, Laguna

February 28, 2013, 1:37 am
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Imok Hill (also spelled Imoc Hill; also known to locals as Mt. Obabis or Telefast) is one of the geographic features that I have been always seeing since I was very young, because it sits right between the two places I consider my hometowns: Los Banos and San Pablo, Laguna. Just like Mt. Amuyao and Mt. Kitanglad, this hill has towers on top, making it distinct among the small mountains in the area. Since it was only 400 meters tall, it did not call my attention until recently, when I realized that it might be a strategic viewpoint for Southern Tagalog mountains.
This morning, my friends Coby and Ryan and I went to San Pablo to check it out. From the national highway from Calauan to San Pablo, we made a left turn to a narrow road in Brgy. San Mateo, and started hiking where the road ended. From there, we followed an existing trail that went straight up, passing through light woodlands with coconuts and patches of pineapple; in just 30 minutes, we were at the top.
At the summit, there are at least two walled structures where the communication towers are housed; these are off-limits. However, on the northwest side of the peak, there is an open area where one can rest by the shade of the trees. Because the peak is flat (or flattened), almost like a small plateau, a 360-degree view is not possible, but you can piece together images from various vantage points to assemble many Southern Tagalog mountains.
Indeed, since it was a very sunny, clear day, we saw Mt. Tagapo and Mt. Sembrano (N) upon Laguna de Bay; there was also the succession of Calauan-Nagcarlan mountains: Mt. Prinza, Mt. Kalisungan, and Mt. Atimla (NE); the Banahaw Trilogy (ENE), Sampaloc Lake (SE), Mt. Malipunyo and oblique to it, Mt. Maculot (SW), and finally, Mt. Makiling (NW). The views of these geographic features, I think, make this short hike a worthy sidetrip after a Kalisungan hike, or a hike-in-itself for those seeking a short but scenic hike. I will let the pictures speak for themselves:
 
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Mountain News: New policies and updates for Mt. Guiting-Guiting

March 12, 2013, 5:29 am
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PinoyMountaineer was informed by Mr. Andy Regla of the Mt. Guiting-Guiting National Park about new policies and updates on the mountain which were approved last February 28, 2013. Here are the major highlights:

1. Everyone is required to register in the Protected Area Office (PAO) before hiking to sign a waiver. Those who fail to comply with this will not be issued a permit, and will not be given a climb certificate. This requirement covers all hikers, including those who are doing a Guiting-Guiting traverse.

2. It is highly recommended that hikers arriving by ferry would proceed to the market to buy supplies, then to Tampayan proper to secure guides. The tricycle ride is P300/way. The official jumpoff is the DENR Park Office.

3. Entrance fee is P300 for local and foreign visitors. Lodging at the Protected Area Office (PAO) Complex is P500/room/day (maximum 3 persons) or P200/person.

4. Guide fee is P1,000/day for foreigners, and P800/day for Filipinos. Porterage fee for foreigners and locals is P600/day.

5. For the regular trail (via Mayo's Peak to summit), the required ratio is 1 guide and 1 porter for 1-5 mountaineers. For the traverse trail, the requirement is 1 guide and 1 porter for 1-3 mountaineers.

6. As per the carrying capacity assessment conducted by the DENR-ERDS and the Guide Association recommendation, 128 persons are allowed to camp the campsites in Mayo's Peak during peak season and 32 during off-season; 18 at the summit, and 18 at Traverse Camp 3. 

7. For more information, the new contact numbers of Park Superintendent (PASU) Malvin Rocero are 09359419563 (Globe) and 09496516340 (Smart)

You can access the permit here and more details about the new fee schedule here. These updates will also be reflected in the Mt. Guiting-Guiting page in PinoyMountaineer.com.
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Essay: I say NO to the proposed 'stairway to Mt. Apo'

March 12, 2013, 1:00 pm
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Facing the Boulders: This is the Mt. Apo I want to cherish and remember
by Gideon Lasco,
PinoyMountaineer.com

LAST APRIL, while climbing Mt. Kinabalu, I met fellow Pinoys who said they were there to observe and learn from how things are run in Mt. Kinabalu, and find out what can be applied for our own Mt. Apo. Many in my team responded with interest because this mountain means a lot to us. Personally, it is home to many beautiful memories, since I first climbed it in 2005. As a climber and an organizer, I have learned many lessons from Mt. Apo, and I have also seen many aspects of its beauty: from the immortal Boulders of the Kapatagan Trail to the serenity of Lake Venado; from the mystical forests of Talomo to the capricious Marble River in the Kidapawan Trail.

Mt. Kinabalu and Mt. Apo have one very important thing in common: They are the highest mountains of their respective countries. As the 'highest mountain', they are national symbols that represent our highest aspirations as a nation. Oftentimes, the highest mountain of a country also stretches its geographic and environmental domain into unique ecosystems, or else, fascinating terrains. Mt. Kinabalu has its massive granite peak, beautiful birds and flowers; Mt. Apo has its Boulders, its volcanic edifices, beautiful Lake Venado, and is home to the Philippine eagle and many other flora and fauna. It is for these reasons that Mt. Kinabalu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a national park in Malaysia; Mt. Apo is also a national park in the Philippines, and is being proposed as a World Heritage Site.

Highest mountains also attract a lot of visitors, because people love superlatives. We look up to the most beautiful, the biggest, the highest, the best. And this is where the problem lies. Every year, especially during summer, thousands of people flock to Mt. Apo to climb its summit. In the process, they overwhelm its trails and campsites, leaving their waste and garbage, not to mention potentially damaging the ecosystem by noise pollution and physical harm to the trees and wildlife.

Sadly, local officials have not done anything to effectively amend the situation. They have collected fees, which rank as among the most expensive in the whole country (ranging from P500 to P700 for locals; more for foreigners) and issued certificates, but nothing much else. Considering that thousands of people climb Mt. Apo yearly, the money that could have been generated must amount to millions, but Lake Venado remains a devastated lake come Holy Week; and as a national park, it is woefully understaffed. Worse, there is no single entity that manages the whole park: Each local government has its own policies, its own standards, its own fees. If you climb from Digos City, you will pay them an 'entrance fee' and of you traverse to Kidapawan,  you will also pay them an 'exit fee'.

If there is something that everyone can agree on, it is that something needs to be done about Mt. Apo. For the Kidapawan City officials to recognize this, and try to do something about it, I commend them. But I object to their plan for several reasons:

First of all, I do not think that the fate of Mt. Apo, a national symbol and a national park, should be decided by an individual municipality or city. Any unilateral steps (literally) to change the mountain might result into a catastrophic tit-for-tat that might lead to other local governments building their own stairways to the mountain. Usually, something of national interest should be dealt with by a national agency, namely the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) in consultation with stakeholders like wildlife conservationists, indigenous peoples, and mountaineers, among many others. With all due respect to the Kidapawan City officials, I believe that they are overstepping their jurisdiction. Malacanang Palace may be within the city limits of Manila but the Manila Tourism Office cannot just open the Palace to the public. Similarly, no matter where the boundaries of Kidapawan City lie, I contend that Mt. Apo is not within its authority. 
Can you imagine stairways replacing this part of the Kidapawan Trail?
Second, building a stairway, and other facilities such as state-of-the-art public restrooms in Lake Venado, are an affront to the natural beauty of the mountain. Remember the furor over the Batangas Provincial Government's plan to build a 'Batangas' sign in Taal Volcano? People got mad because the sign ruins the very attraction it attempts to highlight. Similarly, a stairway to Mt. Apo defeats the purpose of people seeking to climb it in the first place, and that is, to overcome a great challenge. I have said before that "It is the trail that gives meaning to the summit". What meaning will a rope-supported stairway give to our Mt. Apo? It is true that hiking should be for everybody. In 2009, I organized an Amputee Climb in Mt. Batulao and saw how empowering hiking is for persons with disability, and I do believe that hiking should be an inclusive, not an exclusive sport. However, "making it easier" itself does not constitute enough reason to alter the way a mountain is. Moreover,  building a stairway - whether wooden or cement - should not be seen as 'improvement' because nature, in my view, needs no upgrade; this is the very reason why we say: "Don't change the mountain, let the mountain change you."

Third, building a stairway to Mt. Apo would exacerbate the fundamental problem in Mt. Apo, which is an excess of visitors. In the InterAksyon report, a local official was quoted as saying: "This time, we will make the tour to the peak a lot easier for tourists by constructing a permanent stairway." I know of a lot of places that are 'easier for tourists', like Mall of Asia and Rizal Park. For these places, the more, the merrier. But for Mt. Apo, more tourists mean more damage, even more than the damage it is already subject to. Also, 'making it easier to climb Mt. Apo' is a dangerous line of thinking that would ultimately lead to cable cars and elevators. There are also unintended consequences of a stairway: If it will make it easier for climbers, it will also make it easier for vendors, for unscrupulous persons, and many others to come to the mountain.

Fourth, there is the actual damage that the construction and maintenance of the stairways and facilities can cause. I put this as my last argument because its finer points are debatable, and I myself believe that trails can be improved in a way that does not harm the environment. For instance, the wooden steps in Mt. Kinabalu keep the soil from getting eroded. However, I also understand the concerns of many mountaineers that if improperly done, these might wreak further havoc to the mountain. 

I believe that something good can come out of this issue, however, and that is to finally bring to national discourse the environmental situation in Mt. Apo, and the need for something to be done about it. Looking at the proposal of the Kidapawan local government unit (LGU), I see some bright spots, such as the construction of a Visitors' Center at the jumpoff, where I hope Leave No Trace principles will be introduced or reminded to every visitor; as well as the recognition that people should not build trails left and right; there ought to be designated trails that people should follow. 

These can be the starting points of a meaningful conversation. And if I might add: Regulation is the key. We should limit the number of climbers at any given time in Mt. Apo. I hope this is one lesson the officials learned from Mt. Kinabalu, where limits are strictly enforced. For this to happen, we need the participation and cooperation of all the local governments involved, as well as the oversight of the national government through the DENR. There are mountains like Mt. Kanlaon, Mt. Bulusan, and Mt. Kalawitan that have been implemeting limits already; Mt. Pulag is also heading towards this direction. I do hope that the officials in Mt. Apo will follow suit.
Beautiful Lake Venado: Can you imagine facilities beside it?
Certainly, the locals are entitled to earn something for providing good services. However, there is a reason why "eco" goes ahead of "tourism" in "ecotourism": The primary concern must be the environment; any financial gain should be secondary. If money-making is placed ahead of caring for our mountains, we will end up seeing convenience stores, and eventually, a hotel in Lake Venado; we will end up destroying the very attractions we sought to promote. Mt. Kinabalu, for all its beauty, should not be the absolute paradigm of what is good. I have talked to some Malaysian hikers and they do not like they way that their highest mountain has been 'commercialized'. Mt. Everest is said to be one of the most polluted mountains in the world. This is not a problem that is endemic to the Philippines.

I was in Davao last weekend and I talked to some hikers who expressed their concern for Mt. Apo. With social media abuzz with talk about saying no to the Mt. Apo stairway, I am heartened that there are still many people who love Mt. Apo, and are concerned about the mountain. The challenge for us is to be conciliatory, not combative; humble not hostile. We need to get everybody to work on this, and yes, we want the Kidpawan City LGU on our side. I appeal to everyone who says 'NO' to the Mt. Apo stairway to also say 'YES' to sustainable solutions that will protect the mountain.

God save Mt. Apo! But God also calls us to be stewards of the environment, and therefore, let us join hands in saving it - from ourselves.

Los Banos, Laguna
March 12, 2013
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Shirt no. 10, "Leave No Trace" now available!

March 17, 2013, 4:05 am
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PinoyMountaineer Shirt no. 10, "Leave No Trace" is now available in all The Perfect White Shirt Stores! The shirt depicts what we see as the ideal outdoor experience: causing the least impact possible to the environment by applying the principles of Leave No Trace, summed up in the mantra: "Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time."

For Online Orders and Inquiries please email shirts@pinoymountaineer.com or PM The Perfect White Shirt in FB:
www.facebook.com/messages/theperfectwhiteshirt

The Perfect White Shirt branches are as follows:

GLORIETTA - 3rd Floor, Teenzone, Glorietta 3, Makati City

TRINOMA - 2nd Floor, Teenzone, Trinoma, Quezon City

MARKET!MARKET! - K6, New Wing, Ground Floor

ALABANG TOWN CENTER- 2nd floor, in front of T-shirt Project, near National Bookstore

ROBINSONS PLACE ERMITA - Padre Faura Wing, First Level, infront of Goldilocks

ROBINSONS MAGNOLIA - 2nd level, near The Athlete's Foot

PINOYMOUNTAINEER NUMBERED SHIRTS
Shirt no.1: Don't change the mountain
Shirt no. 2: Take nothing  but pictures
Buti na lang may climb bukas
Shirt no. 3: I love the mountains
Shirt no. 4: Hike
Shirt no. 5: It's more fun in the Philippine mountains
Shirt no. 6: For the love of hiking
Shirt no. 7: Get High
Shirt no. 8: Mountaineer
Shirt no. 9.1: Stop Dreaming, Start Climbing
Shirt no. 9.2: Mind Over Mountain
Shirt no. 9.3: Hike For Life
Shirt no. 10: Leave No Trace

DRI FIT SHIRTS
Dri Fit no. 1: Classic
Dri Fit no. 2: Tri-color
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